72 Australian GeographicW
E PILE BACK onto Coral Expeditions II and four hours
later are once again pulling on fins, masks and
snorkels as we prep for our first outer reef experience- exploring Ribbon Reef No. 9.
This is one of 10 ribbon reefs fringing the edge of the conti-
nental shelf here for 100km. Ribbon reefs stretch along the east-
ern edge of the GBR, between Fraser Island in the south and
Cape Tribulation to the north.
Between them are narrow passages of ocean hiding deep expan-
sive bommies – submerged offshore reefs that have been built up
over millennia and in some places reach down as deep as 40m.
The uppermost living layers of the ribbon reefs are shallow, just
five metres below the surface.
The hard corals here are particularly vibrant, and, in a down-
ward cascade from the edge, different species jut out at different
angles in a never-ending, slow-moving competition for sunlight.
Brightly coloured bumphead parrotfish move between schools
of black surgeonfish that swim erratically from coral to coral. The
underwater current here is stronger than around Lizard Island
and I relax against the pull and push of the shallow surface waves
as I watch the softer corals sway.
Next morning, as I head down from the upper deck to board
the glass-bottom boat, I turn to the bow and see nothing but blue
touching blue on the horizon. I begin to appreciate the GBR’s
size and just how far from the coast we are. I can see where the
outer ocean meets the reef ’s eastern edge, creating a wall of white
waves, a sight that at more than 65km from the coast is inacces-
sible to day-tour vessels.
Our glass-bottom tender has been specially designed to launch
directly off the back of the boat and it takes a group of us, along
with on-board marine biologist Evie Callander, over Ribbon
Reef No. 3.
Evie deftly steers us over a variety of corals, seaweeds and
anemones, identifying each species as we cruise along on our own
personally guided tour, receiving a privileged expert perspective
on the life sprawling beneath – a perfect teaser before we enter
the water ourselves.
Later that day we head south to Escape Reef – and as we slip
into the water it soon becomes clear that this is going to be the
most stunning experience of what has already been a trip full of
spectacular scenery and unique adventures.
Escape Reef is filled with valleys of giant boulder corals the
size of VW Beetles. Between them, massive staghorn corals form
expansive forests and small fish dart rapidly in and out of theirEscape Reef is filled with
valleys of giant boulder corals
the size of VW Beetles.
Tne rest of the world seems far away
during sunset drinks on the low-lying
sandy surface of Sudbury Cay.
PHOTO CREDITS: CORAL EXPEDITIONS