Australian Gourmet Traveller — May 2017

161

HOT1 00

MINT AND PISTACHIO MOCHI

BITES OF CHEESE,

HERBS AND SPROUTS

FISH, LEMONY PISTACHIO

AND KOHLRABI

A SEQUENCE OF HERBS,

PICKLES AND DRESSING

BRAISED PIG’S TAIL

AND REDUCTION

PRESERVED HIBISCUS,

GINGER AND YOGHURT

ROASTED MAMEY AND

PIXTLE ICE-CREAM

CRISP TENDONS

AND PICKLES

FISH, LEMON AND

TURNIP MILK

MEXICAN NEW WAVE

As vibrant as Mexico City is for food, the high-end restaurant

scene has seen relatively little action following the breakthroughs

of Pujol and Quintonil. Lorea, though, is turning heads. Right from

the start things are couched in the playful, provocative terms

that chef and owner Oswaldo Oliva enjoyed for years in the

kitchen at Mugaritz, the famed restaurant in the Basque country.

Will it be Menú One, “A tasty sequence that does not require

complications” or Menú Two, “Audacity with an inspiring impact;

a constant challenge”? In any case, it could mean choko-root

gnocchi dressed with roasted hazelnut and potato skins, a radical

pairing of plums and mezcal, or a taco-like sweet of fermented

toffee, rye and marshmallow. Brace for impact. lorea.mx #