MAY 2017VIRGIN AUSTRALIA 063
EAT
In 1984, Hugo Ortega crossed
the Rio Grande to get to the
US from his native Mexico
and Houstonians remain
eternally grateful. His famed
flagship Hugo’s ( 1600
Westheimer Rd; http://www.hugos
restaurant.net) and seafood-
based sister Caracol ( 2200
Post Oak Bvd; http://www.caracol.net)
are known for their Sunday
Mexican bufet brunches,
with sumptuous food and
cocktails especially kind to
those still feeling the night
before. Helen Greek Food
and Wine (2429 Rice Bvd; http://www.
helengreekfoodandwine.com)
makes quintessentially Greek
village food in a Gulf Coast
kitchen, merging fresh,
seasonal produce from both
regions. Try Frixos Catch,
a whole fish guaranteed to
have been caught in the four
hours before it hits your plate.
Blacksmith Cafe ( 1018
Westheimer Rd; http://www.blacksmith
houston.com) proves you can
get great cofee in America,
and features a selection
of healthy breakfasts and
lunches, too. You can’t come
to Texas without indulging
in a steak, and Pappas
Bros Steakhouse ( 5839
Westheimer Rd; http://www.pappas
bros.com) is where you’ll find
locals getting their fix. Stop by
Ninfa’s on Navigation ( 2704
Navigation Bvd; http://www.ninfas.
com) to see where ‘Mama’
Ninfa Laurenzo is said to have
introduced Americans to the
food of Mexican labourers on
the Rio Grande — the fajita.
Watch the tortillas being
made by hand in the open
kitchen as you enjoy a frozen
margarita and wait for your
sizzling dishes to arrive. To n y
Mandola’s (1212 Waugh Dr;
http://www.tonymandolas.com) serves
up classic Gulf Coast fare with
a heavy Louisiana accent. If
you’re looking for indulgence
of a diferent kind, head to the
patio of Captain Foxheart’s
Bad News Bar & Spirit Lodge
(308 Main St; +1 718 387 6962) for
a signature cocktail list that
reads like an autograph book.
Prepare to be utterly charmed by the house, created when
Milkovisch began inlaying marbles, rocks and metal pieces
into concrete and redwood to form unique features. When he
got “sick of mowing the grass”, he moved onto landscaping his
backyard with empty beer cans, then the facade of his house,
forming a guard of honour from some 50,0000 units of his
beloved drink, many consumed by the man himself.
On the walls of the house you’ll find quotes by Milkovisch,
providing insights into what motivated him. “They say every
man should leave something to be remembered by,” says one in
the living room. Above a portrait of the couple is a quote from
his wife Mary: “He thought beer cured everything.”
More than just a tribute to the tipple, the house is a perfectly
maintained exhibit of America’s golden age, with a turquoise
1950s kitchen that makes you feel like you’ve stepped on to
the set of Mad Men. Open the cupboards to see oferings of beer
cans left by fans from around the world.
Postal worker Jeferson Davis McKissack also turned his
passion for consumption into a life’s work, albeit consumption
of a much healthier kind. A devotee of the humble orange for
its nutritional value, McKissack spent almost 25 years creating
the Orange Show in homage to his favourite fruit, a fun fair-
styled outdoor exhibition made from scrap materials.
A loner with a vision of how the world ought to be, McKissack
was a quintessential ‘outsider’ artist, but in a sad twist, his
passion ended in tragedy, like many forebears of the genre.