Elle Australia — May 2017

(Wang) #1
GRAND FINALE
Reproductions of
Moore’s works;
(below) the couture
capes that closed the
February show

ELLE: This shift away from the Burberry
tropes – regimental jackets, etc – do you see it as
a new chapter?
CB:Žę—’Ž•¢ǯ ‘’—”˜ž›Œ˜–™Š—¢˜Žœ‘›˜ž‘
’쎛Ž— ™‘ŠœŽœ ŽŸŽ›¢ ꟎ ˜ œŽŸŽ— ¢ŽŠ›œǰ Š—
 ŽȂ›Ž˜’—’—˜Š—˜‘Ž›—˜ ǯ ˜—Ȃ”—˜ ‘˜ 
œ™ŽŒ’ęŒ ‘Š ’œ ˜ žœǰ ˜› ’ ’Ȃœ —Šž›Š•ǯ žœ ŗś
years ago, we were predominantly a licensed
Œ˜–™Š—¢  ˜›• ’Žǯ Ž œ™Ž— ¢ŽŠ›œ Š”’—
back ownership of the company and taking back
‘Ž •’ŒŽ—ŒŽœǯ Ž ‘Ž— ‹ŽŒŠ–Ž Š ™›Ž˜–’—Š—•¢
 ‘˜•ŽœŠ•Ž Œ˜–™Š—¢ǯœ  Ž  Ž›Ž ‹ž’•’— ‘Šǰ
 Ž Ž›ŽŠ•œ˜œŠ›’—˜‹ž’•Š›ŽŠ’•˜˜™›’—ǯ
ŽȂŸŽ—˜ ˜›ŽŠ’•Š›˜ž—‘Ž ˜›•ǯ˜ ŽȂ›Ž
“žœ—Šž›Š••¢’—Š’쎛Ž—™•ŠŒŽǯ—˜™˜‘Šǰ
¢˜žȂŸŽ —˜  ˜ Š Œžœ˜–Ž›  ‘˜ ’œ Ž¡™•˜›’—ǰ
Ž¡™Ž›’Ž—Œ’— Ȯ œ‘˜™™’— Š—¢’–Žǰ Š—¢ ‘Ž›Ž ’—
‘Ž  ˜›• Ÿ’Š –˜‹’•Ž ŽŸ’ŒŽœ Š— Žœ”˜™œǯ ˜ǰ
¢˜ž ”—˜ ǰ ȂŸŽ —ŽŸŽ› ›ŽŠ••¢ œŽ™Š›ŠŽ ‘Ž
Œ˜––Ž›Œ’Š• Š— ‘Ž Œ›ŽŠ’ŸŽǯ ‘Ž ˜Œžœ ‘Šœ
Š• Š¢œ‹ŽŽ—˜—‘ŠŸ’—Š™˜’—˜Ÿ’Ž ǰŠœ›˜—
ŠŽœ‘Ž’Œǯ‘ŽŒ˜––Ž›Œ’Š•’œŠ›Žœž•˜‘Šǯ
ELLE: Do you think Burberry became too
ŠŒŒŽœœ’‹•Žǵ ˜ž  Ž›Ž šž’Ž ˜ěŽ—Ž ‹¢ ‘Ž
suggestion that “see now, buy now” would cause
¢˜ž˜™›˜žŒŽ™’ŽŒŽœ¢˜ž”—˜  ’••œŽ••ǯ
CB: ‘’—” Ȃ–Š™›Š–Š’Œ›ŽŠ–Ž›ǯ ˜—ȂœŽŽ
‘’—œ ’— œžŒ‘ œ’–™•’œ’Œ  Š¢œǯ ¢ ŽŒ’œ’˜— ˜
–Š”Ž‘ŽŒ˜••ŽŒ’˜—œŠŸŠ’•Š‹•Ž˜‹ž¢›’‘ ‘Ž—
 Ž ˜ ‘Ž œ‘˜   Šœ ‹ŽŒŠžœŽ Ž• Ȯ Š— ŽŽ• Ȯ
‘Šȱ ˜›ȱ Š—ȱ Ž¡›Š˜›’—Š›’•¢ȱ ˜› Š›Ȭ‘’—”’—ȱ

’—žœ›¢ǰ  ŽȂŸŽ ‹ŽŽ—  ˜›”’—  ’‘ ‘Ž œŠ–Ž
’–’—˜›ŽŒŠŽœǰŽŸŽ—‘˜ž‘Š••˜˜ž›•’ŸŽœ
‘ŠŸŽ Œ‘Š—Ž šž’Ž ›Š–Š’ŒŠ••¢ǯ ›Ž–Ž–‹Ž›
Řŗǰ ŘŘ ¢ŽŠ›œ Š˜ǰ –˜Ÿ’— ˜ Ž  ˜›”ǰ  Šœ
ŠœŒ’—ŠŽ‹¢‘’œŒ˜—ŒŽ™‘Š™Ž˜™•Ž‘ŠŸŽ‘Ž’›
 ’—Ž›  Š››˜‹Ž Š— ‘Ž’› œž––Ž›  Š››˜‹Žǯ
‘Ž¢ ™ŠŒ”Ž ˜—Ž œŽŠœ˜— Š Š¢ǰ Š— ‘Ž —Ž¡
œŽŠœ˜—ŒŠ–Ž˜žǯ ˜—Ȃ”—˜ ’ Ž•’ŸŽ’—‘Š
way anymore, with so many social platforms,
’’Š• ™•Š˜›–œ Š— Š•œ˜ ™›’—Ž ’–ŠŽ›¢ǯ
˜—Ȃ ”—˜  ’  Ž •’ŸŽ ’— Š ™Ž›’˜ Š—¢–˜›Ž
where you tear it out, put it on your fridge and
œŠ¢ǰȃ Ȃ••‹ž¢‘Š’—œ’¡–˜—‘œǯȄ ŽŽ•œœ˜Š•’Ž—ǰ
‘Š  ‘˜•Ž ’ŽŠǯ Ž ‘Ž›ŽȂœ Š— ’—žœ›¢  ‘Ž›Ž
 Ž œ’••  ˜›” ’— ‘Š  Š¢ǯ ˜œ Žœ’—Ž›œ Š›Ž
Œ•ŽŸŽ›Ž—˜ž‘ȮŠ— Œ•Šœœ–¢œŽ•ŠœŠŽœ’—Ž›ǰ
not an artist – to create something that has an
emotional resonance and impact, but also, just
‹¢ ‘Ž ŸŽ›¢ —Šž›Ž ˜ ¢˜ž ™žĴ’— ’ ˜— ¢˜ž›
‹˜¢ǰ ’ ‘Šœ ˜  ˜›”ǯ ‘Ž›Ž˜›Žǰ  Ž œ˜–Ž’–Žœ
‘ŠŸŽ ˜ •˜˜” Š ‘Ž ™›˜ŒŽœœ Šœ  Ž•• Šœ ‘Ž ꗊ•
‘’—ǯ ‘Ž ‘’— ‘Š ˜ ›ŠĴ¢ Š‹˜ž  Šœȱ‘’œȱ
idea that changing your timetable
–’‘ –Š”Ž ¢˜ž •Žœœ Œ›ŽŠ’ŸŽǯ
œŽŽ–œ•ž’Œ›˜žœǯ
ELLE:˜ ’Ȃœ œŠŽ ˜ œŠ¢ ¢˜ž ˜—Ȃ
see anticipation as being inherent
˜ •ž¡ž›¢ǵ Š› ˜ ‘Ž ‘’—”’— ’œǰ
ȃ  ŒŠ— ‘ŠŸŽ ’ ›’‘ Š Š¢ǰ ’
ŒŠ—Ȃ‹Ž•ž¡ž›¢ǯȄ
CB: ȂŸŽ ¢Ž ˜ –ŽŽ œ˜–Ž‹˜¢  ‘˜
œŠ¢œǰȃ  ˜ž•—Ȃ Š—’—˜ Dz  Š—
˜ Š’ǯ Ȃœ–žŒ‘–˜›Ž’—›’ž’—ǯȄ
ELLE:Going back to the beginning,
 ‘Š ˜ ¢˜ž ŠĴ›’‹žŽ ¢˜ž› Šœ‘’˜—
awakening to?
CB: —ŽŸŽ› ›ŽŠ••¢ ‘Š Š—
understanding of fashion growing
ž™ǯ Œ˜–Ž ›˜– Š Š’›•¢ ›ž›Š•ǰ
 ˜›”’—ȬŒ•Šœœ ‹ŠŒ”›˜ž—ǰ  ‘Ž›Ž
¢˜ž  Ž›Ž Ž¡™ŽŒŽ ˜ǰ ŠŽ› œŒ‘˜˜•ǰ
˜ ˜ž Š—  ˜›”ǯ  Šœ ‘Ž ꛜ
™Ž›œ˜—’—–¢Š–’•¢˜˜˜Œ˜••ŽŽǯ ȂŠ• Š¢œ
been interested, subconsciously, in design and
–žœ’Œ Š— ꕖǯǯǯ Š— žœŽ ˜ ˜ ˜ “ž–‹•Ž
œŠ•Žœǯ ‘Ž¢Ȃ›Ž ǽ‘Ž•Ǿ ’— Œ‘ž›Œ‘Žœǰ žœžŠ••¢ ˜—
Š ›’Š¢ —’‘ǯ Šœ’ŒŠ••¢ǰ ’Ȃœ  ‘Ž›Ž ™Ž˜™•Ž
ž–™‘Ž’›˜•œžěǯ¢‹Žœ›’Ž—Š— žœŽ
to buy trench coats, weirdly – men’s tailoring,
™•Š˜›– œ‘˜Žœǯ  Šœ ’—›’žŽǰ ‹ž ‘Šȱ—˜ȱ
’ŽŠȱ’ȱ Šœȱ‘’œȱ‘’—ȱŒŠ••ŽȱŠœ‘’˜—ǯ‰

ELLE.COM.AU / @ELLEAUS 133


Photography: Courtesy of Burberry; John Hedgecoe, Henry Moore archive; Imaxtree; JasonLloyd-Evans. Styling: Karen Clarkson. Hair: Larry King at Streeters. Makeup: Naoko Scintu atThe Wall Group. Manicure: Ama Quashie at CLM. Production: Sam Rudd at Pure Creative Management. Fashion assistants: Jonathan Johnson; Zenobia Voegele-Downing

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