MAY 2017 57
Shrink Your Gut
With Gastrophysics
How one meal can change everything you
think you know about eating – and overeating
[BYSUSHMA SUBRAMANIAN]
You’re sitting in a booth at a fast-food
chicken joint. You unwrap the crunchy
paper to unveil a squishy bun hugging a
warm breast of fried chicken. Pop music
plays above. The aroma of crisped fat
intensifies. You take a bite. It’s not nearly as
juicy as the ad made it look. But you eat.
And probably eat more than you should,
as if compelled by outside forces.
The truth is, those forces – from the
texture of the wrapping to the lightness
of the bun to the blaring music – are
intentional. Scientists have long known
that much of what you “taste” when you’re
eating isn’t about your palate. A new
branch of research is proving the
assumption that all of your senses are
at play when you eat.
To experience these findings first-hand,
I paid a visit to Dr Charles Spence, director
of the University of Oxford’s Crossmodal
Research Laboratory in London.
Spence has popularised the term
“gastrophysics” to refer to the science
behind brain-belly communication. He
guided me through a meal with each
course designed to manipulate one of
my senses.
Here’s what I learned.
HowSightMakes You Fat
My first course was entirely white.
Four appetisers sat atop an ivory
platter: a snowy ball, cloudlike
cotton candy, colourless globules
and a triangular chip. With
Spencelookingon,Iwastoldto
eattheminorderfromsourto
saltytobittertosweet.Iwentfor
the chip. Spence asked why.
Itoldhimthetoppinglooked
likeitwaspickled,soitmightbe
sour. Spence suggested that
there could be something else
going on. Sweetness is typically
associated with round shapes
(think chocolate chip cookies).
Hard, angled edges (lemon
wedges) communicate sourness
and bitterness. Spence explained
that there’s truth to the adage
“weeatwithoureyes”.When
ourfoodlosescolour,our brain
loses context.
1 /Shut Off the Neon
Spence’s research suggests that
people are so compelled by
colour that they trick themselves
intotastingwhattheysee.Inan
experiment he reviewed, for
example, many tasters deemed a
cherry-flavoured soft drink citrusy
becauseithadavibrantorange
colour.Byavoidingprocessed
foodsinanyhuenotfoundin
nature,youcancutdownonjunk.
2 /Look Past the Package
Peopletendtobelievethata
productinmattepackagingis
healthier than one in a glossy
container, according to Spence.
Thenutritionfactsarewhat
matter: always check them when
you’re shopping for food.
3 /Swap Your Dishes
Try eating out of a small bowl
insteadofabigplate.Therimofa
platemayfoolyouintothinking
there’s less food than there really
is,Spencesays.Abowl,
especially filled to the top, gives
the impression of abundance,
possibly leading you to eat less.
HowSmellMakes You Fat
Back in 2000, in his research on
icedteaforafoodcompany,
Spence made an interesting
discovery: when people opened
abottleoficedtea,theythoughtit
smelled evocative. But when they
drankthetea,theflavourwasfar
more subdued, disappointing
them. Your brain doesn’t like
having its predictions proved
wrong, he says. One way to fix the
conflict between smell and taste:
addsugar.Thatwaythetongue
experiences the level of flavour it
had expected based on scent.
1 /Pick Plain
Choose regular, no-fruit-on-the-
bottom yoghurt to cut added
sugar. Then add your own
berries. Incorporate something
that makes you chew longer, like
nuts, to help reduce your overall
kilojoule intake, says Spence.
2 /Watch the Booze
Youknowbeergogglesarea
thing, but beer schnozzes?
People under the influence of
alcoholtendtoeatmore,the
journalObesityreports. Alcohol
cansensitisethebraintofood
aromas,incitingustoeatwhen
we’re not hungry and to overeat.
Orderyourdrink with your meal,
not before.
3 /Lose the Idea of Scent
In2015,researchersstudieda
marketing tactic called
WEIGHT LOSS