Men\'s Health Malaysia - Jun 2017

58 JUNE 2017

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS

STEVE THOMAS

Guy Skills

A traditional catamaran

waits to take tourists

out for a ride

SRI LANKA, IT’S A PLACE THAT

means so much to so many people;

and more often than not, that

meaning and understanding of this

emerald of the Indian Ocean comes

in a different form.

It really isn’t easy to sum up Sri

Lanka, as the country is so deeply

varied in almost every possible way.

For many, it’s the dreamy and

secluded beaches that draw them

back time and again to these

tranquil shores. For others, those

same beaches offer up some of the

best surf in the world, while many

head a little further offshore for a

glimpse of the famous blue whales

that inhabit the waters around the

southern coast.

Head inland along its classic,

old colonial railways, and you

sweep through mountains and tea

plantations that positively dwarf

those of Cameron Highlands.

Between these lush, green

plantations are pristine national

parks jammed full of wildlife.

The central part of the island

is flat and hot, and extremely rich

in ancient religious architecture

• especially Buddhist. For culture
  vultures, the central “Cultural
  Triangle” is truly paved with heart-
  stopping inner beauty.
  Needless to say, the capital city
  of Colombo is a hot and bustling
  place, which can often come as
  something of a mild culture shock
  to unsuspecting visitors, even if it is
  on the tame side when compared to
  neighbouring India.
  For those in the know, the first
  (and last) stop on any visit to Sri

Lanka should be the seaside town

of Negombo, a comparative oasis of

tranquillity. Negombo makes for a

perfect base for a short visit to the

country, or a great starting point for

longer adventures around the island.

Being less than 10km from the

international airport makes Negombo

an even more appealing curtain

opener to Sri Lanka; but, as many find

out, it’s a whole lot more than that, and

it’s well worth kicking your heels up

here for a few days of mild-mannered

adventure and relaxation.

WATERY WELCOME

The main Negombo beach is

long and alluring. Overall, it’s a

TRAVEL

Serendib

Sands

Sri Lanka is a fascinating and varied

place to visit, with endless adventure

waiting around every twist of the rails.

Yet, you can also have a great time

within minutes of the airport. We head

to Negombo to get the lowdown

Fresh fish on sale

by the beach

http://www.mens-health.com.my 59

Hopping a ride out with them is a

cycling experience not to be passed up.

Most ride the busy roads between

the airport and Negombo, using the

morning traffic as motor pacing. If

you find it all a little hairy, then take

the coastal road from the old town

southwards; it follows a spit of land, is

very scenic, and has almost zero traffic.

STEPPING IT UP

If the slow pace of Negombo has you

yearning for more adventure, then

it’s an ideal place to arrange transport

or trips to the rest of Sri Lanka.

There are local agents all over

town, and you’re just an hour or so

away from the centre of Colombo,

which gives access to the rail

network and long-distance buses.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

It takes just over three-hours of

direct flight time from KL-Colombo,

with Malaysia Airlines, SriLankan

Airlines and AirAsia all operating

direct daily flights.

Transfers can easily be

arranged when booking your

accommodation. It might cost

slightly more, but at least the driver

will know where to go. It only takes

about 20-30 minutes to town, and

rates are cheap.

Local tuk-tuks linger everywhere;

be sure to negotiate prices before

setting off. For longer trips, trains

and buses are a good option.

You can also rent cars with

drivers, but be sure to check the

details before doing so. (You can’t

rent a car without a local licence.)

WHEN TO GO

Sri Lanka has a fickle and varied

climate, meaning that it’s always

good to go somewhere, but not

everywhere.

January, February and early

March are the driest months in

Negombo, with July-September

also being pleasant.

EATING AND SLEEPING

There are numerous guesthouses,

dorms and hotels of every possible

standard to be found in Negombo,

with rates being slightly less than

in Malaysia – and with better

standards at the lower end.

Check online in advance and

book at least your first night. Try

to make sure that you are within

walking distance of the main tourist

and beach area, as that’s where the

best eateries are found.

There are many great restaurants

along the coastal road, with freshly

caught seafood being especially

good, and very cheap.

Curry and rice is a daily ritual

here, and for a set fee, you will be

served with copious amounts of

various mildly spiced curries.

Be sure to try devilled dishes for

something spicier, and kutu roti

(chopped, mixed roti) for a snack.

VISAS

Visas are best applied online. It’s a

simple and swift process. Check out

http://www.eta.gov.lk

great place to simply walk and

acclimatise. It’s a fairly quiet place,

though you might well get hassled

by trinket vendors and boat owners,

but not in an usually aggressive way.

There are several beach cafés and

restaurants along the way, and if you

head towards the old-town end of

the beach, you pass through coves

and eventually reach the old fish

market, which is a must-visit place.

Along this strip, there will be

several traditional catamarans, and

a trip out on one of these is a great

local experience, but be sure to

negotiate well before setting out.

The surf and the snorkelling here

are reasonable too, though they do

not compare to that of Negombo’s

southern beaches, and the water is

not quite as clean.

STANDARD RIDERS

The flat coastal fringes around

the island make for great cycling,

though it definitely pays to steer

clear of the busy main roads.

There are some really nice village

roads leading in from the beach,

which could provide you with a

sweet and interesting introduction

to local culture. The coastal road

north is relatively quiet too, and also

makes for a hot and often blustery

ride with an ocean backdrop.

If you head out very early, you

will most likely come across one of

the most fascinating cycling sub-

cultures in the world: that of the “Sri

Lankan standard racers”.

Each morning, the flat roads

of the island are thrashed out

by hundreds of cyclists, most

on standard issue single-speed

roadsters left over from the British

Colonial era.

On bikes ridden out of necessity,

these riders are passionate beyond

belief, and there is a thriving racing

scene based around these old steeds.

Street food on the

beach after dark

Colourful treats

downtown