(^10) FLYLIFE
ping straight down a beech-lined ridge
into a Rangitikei tributary. Seeing the
deep, boulder-strewn pools with their
overhanging trees after a day and a
half of nothing but exposed tussock
was a profound moment, and the envi-
ronmental transition was testament to
the sheer effort required to get this
far. Our excitement turned to concern
when, only a few hundred metres
downstream from the track junction,
we were confronted by a succession
of impassable waterfalls. This concern
was exacerbated by the fact that one
group we’d chatted to had previously
attempted this route and turned back
upon finding the falls.
Noticing what appeared to be a
plateau in the bush, ten metres above
the river, we engaged in a decidedly
dicey climb straight up the side of the
gorge. We followed the plateau for a
distance, dropped back into the river
down a small side creek, and finally
found salvation in the form of a ris-
ing trout – we knew we could make
it down now.
We hiked five exhausting hours
downstream, attempting to maintain
balance in thick hiking boots on slick
river rocks with the weight of a medi-
um-sized child fixed stubbornly to
our backs. The forecast rain arrived
when we were still hours from camp
and ensured that parts of us that
weren’t already wet from deep cross-
ings would not stay dry for long.
Conversation ebbed and we entered
that introspective state, simultaneous-
ly thinking of nothing but the next
footstep and giving ourselves over
to every deep musing of our minds.
Then, after nearly two full days of
walking, we saw it for the first time:
the Rangitikei River resplendent in
the afternoon rain.
QUINTESSENTIAL RANGITIKEI
It was with mixed emotions that we
realised we shared the campsite with
three others. To walk so far only to
be met with more anglers than you’d
typically encounter at a roadside loca-
tion was a bitter pill to swallow. But,
having duly swallowed it (and washed
it down with a brief swig of whisky),
we realised that our intended plans
did not impact the other group. With
the rain lifted and a fire lit, we all
huddled around to dry off.
Waking to a clear sky gave the morn-
ing coffee an added richness, and our
excitement to fish ensured tents were
rolled in record time. Bidding our new
friends adieu we rigged our rods and
began the jaunt upstream. Though we
spotted fish in the first pool, they had
our measure rather thoroughly, and it
wasn’t until an hour into the day that
I opened my account with a fit Rangi-
tikei rainbow of around 4.5 lb taken
on a deep nymph (Tim snuck a fish in
during the previous evening rise). The
river flowed through a tight section of
valley, resulting in inordinately deep
IT IS ONE THING TO FISH IN A SITUATION
LIKE THIS, AND QUITE ANOTHER TO SEE
THE MAGIC UNFOLD AS A SPECTATOR.
Russell Anderson’s green stonefly accounted for a number of good fish.
Hooked up in Paradise.
Tim tucking into a Backcountry Cuisine.
Rangitikei Trekking... continued
lu
(lu)
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