products – salt from the Algarve, bottles products – salt from the Algarve, bottles
of port, chunky legs of of port, chunky legs of jamonjamon, rounds of , rounds of
cheese and the local smoked sausage, cheese and the local smoked sausage,
alheiraalheira. Stop by. Stop by Confeitaria do BolhaoConfeitaria do Bolhao
(confeitariadobolhao.com) at no. 339 for (confeitariadobolhao.com) at no. 339 for
coffee and coffee and pao de lopao de lo (tube-shaped (tube-shaped
sponge cake), sponge cake), ovos molesovos moles (shell-shaped (shell-shaped
cakes) or cakes) or bolo reibolo rei (the fruit bread-like (the fruit bread-like
‘King’s cake’ popular at Christmas). ‘King’s cake’ popular at Christmas).
GRAB AND GOGRAB AND GO
It comes as no surprise that Porto’s street It comes as no surprise that Porto’s street
food skews sweet. On any weekend, food skews sweet. On any weekend,
stalls selling bite-sized iced sponge cakes stalls selling bite-sized iced sponge cakes
called bolinhos (roughly ‘rain scones’) and
bolo de mel (honey cake with cinnamon)
can be found throughout the city.
Ice cream is also popular – try com ovos
moles made with soft egg yolks, or the
pumpkin jam variety, from the Gelados de
Portugal (geladosdeportugal.pt) stores.
Candy-striped Gelados Santini (santini.pt)
is the rage in Cascais, but its shop at Largo
do Lóios 16 is surprisingly quiet, perhaps
because it is away from the waterfront.
Portugal’s version of churros, farturas,
are part of the language – ‘sto farto’
means ‘I’m done’. And sardines are a
national obsession – brightly coloured tins
are sold everywhere. You’ll find a great
selection at A Vida Portuguesa (Rua da
Galeria de Paris 20; avidaportuguesa.
com), a fantastic department store selling
the best of Portuguese design in ceramics,
food, bath products and fashion. If you
want to try the fresh variety, you’ll discover
them grilled on the street in the Ribeira
district on the Douro or at the Matosinhos
harbourfront, north of Porto (take Metro
line A to Brito Capelo).
RAISE A GLASS
Shipments of port wine from the quintas,
or wine estates, of the Douro Valley to
the city of Oporto began in the 17th
century. The wine was taken from the dry
growing regions up river to age in the growing regions up river to age in the
cool, damp lodges alongside the port. cool, damp lodges alongside the port.
Porto’s Gaia district, a 30-minute stroll Porto’s Gaia district, a 30-minute stroll
across the river from Ribeira, is home to across the river from Ribeira, is home to
a number of centuries-old port lodges, a number of centuries-old port lodges,
each offering visits and tastings. each offering visits and tastings. Taylor’s Taylor’s
(Rua do Choupelo 250; taylor.pt), (Rua do Choupelo 250; taylor.pt),
founded in 1692, is one of the oldest, and founded in 1692, is one of the oldest, and
its hillside property, set in beautiful rose its hillside property, set in beautiful rose
gardens with roaming peacocks, has an gardens with roaming peacocks, has an
excellent self-guided tour where the excellent self-guided tour where the
process of making the fortified wine is process of making the fortified wine is
explained. The cool lodge and gardens explained. The cool lodge and gardens
are a welcome respite on hot days. The
€12 admission includes a tasting of three
ports. Tip: the 2011 vintage is considered
the best in two decades.HEAD OUT OF TOWN
Follow the scenic Douro out of Porto and
soon you’ll be among the steep slopes
and vineyards of the oldest demarcated
wine region in the world. The UNESCO-
listed valley is dotted with quintas and
small villages.
We suggest combining a trip to Porto
with a stay at the marvellous Six Senses
Douro Valley (Quinta Vale de Abrão;
sixsenses.com), the first European resort
from the highly regarded Bangkok-based
spa group. The spectacular 19th-century
manor sits amid extensive formal
gardens on the edge of a forest
overlooking a particularly lovely bend
in the river. Menus are overseen by the
aforementioned Rui Paula and, in line
with the group’s policy of sustainability,
the resort grows much of its produce in a
well-tended vegetable garden. We liked
the idea of retreating to the spa for a
mani/pedi while being served local
cheese and wine. This is one resort where
wellness and gastronomy are most
definitely in perfect synergy.RESTING PLACES
Sleep in an 18th-century Baroque palace Sleep in an 18th-century Baroque palace
at the at the Pestana Palácio do Freixo Pestana Palácio do Freixo (Av. (Av.
Escritor Costa Barreto 421; lhw.com/hotel/Escritor Costa Barreto 421; lhw.com/hotel/
Pestana-Palacio-do-Freixo-Pousada-Pestana-Palacio-do-Freixo-Pousada-
National-Monument-Porto-Portugal), a National-Monument-Porto-Portugal), a
national monument that was expensively national monument that was expensively
restored and transformed into a five-star restored and transformed into a five-star
hotel in 2009. On the banks of the Douro hotel in 2009. On the banks of the Douro
about 10 minutes from the city centre by about 10 minutes from the city centre by
taxi, the Versailles-like palace is as much taxi, the Versailles-like palace is as much
resort as grand hotel, with beautiful formal resort as grand hotel, with beautiful formal
gardens and pool (and a sexy sun deck) on gardens and pool (and a sexy sun deck) on
the river, as well as indoor pool and spa. the river, as well as indoor pool and spa.
The contemporary guestrooms are housed
in the adjoining renovated flour mill.
The Intercontinental Palacio das
Cardosas (Praça da Liberdade 25; ihg.
com/intercontinental) occupies, hands
down, the best location in the city – right
on the main square within walking
distance of everything of interest,
including the riverfront, and with views of
the ornate Town Hall. Originally a
monastery, the handsome building has
exceptionally well-appointed rooms with
large marble bathrooms.GETTING THERE
British Airways (britishairways.com) flies
from Sydney to London Heathrow daily,
with a quick connection to Lisbon three
times a day. (There’s also a direct daily
BA flight to Porto from Gatwick.) From
Lisbon, we took the fast train to Porto
using the Eurail Three Country Select
Pass, which allowed for five days of travel
within two months. Seat reservations are
required on the fast trains – visit
railreurope.com.au to book.delicious.com.au/travel
For more international guides.delicious.com.au 133