FOR TAMSIN CARVAN, UNEARTHING
HOMHOMEGROWEGROWN POTATOES IS NOT UNN POTATOES IS NOT UNLIKE LIKE
FINFINDING BURIED TREASURE.DING BURIED TREASURE.
WWO R D S A N D R EC I P E SO R D S A N D R EC I P E S TA TAMMS I NS I N C CAARRVAVANN
P H OTO G R A P H Y A N D S T Y L I N GP H OTO G R A P H Y A N D S T Y L I N G C CHHI NI NAA S Q S QUUI RI RRREELLpotatoes
ou wouldn’t expect potatoes to be the cause of arguments in
our vegetable patch. But when mour vegetable patch. But when my desire to serve our freshly y desire to serve our freshly
dug potatoes at every Sunday Table lunch interferes with dug potatoes at every Sunday Table lunch interferes with
mmy partner Al’s desire to have themy partner Al’s desire to have them every night for dinner, every night for dinner,
comcomprompromises mises must be must be made. Like onions, it seemade. Like onions, it seems that every s that every
year we grow myear we grow more potatoes, but never are there enough. If you have ever ore potatoes, but never are there enough. If you have ever
eaten a handful of freshly dug pink fir apple potatoes, gently scrubbed but eaten a handful of freshly dug pink fir apple potatoes, gently scrubbed but
definitely not peeled, boiled in salty water and served with huge amdefinitely not peeled, boiled in salty water and served with huge amounts ounts
of salty butter, then you’ll understand what the fuss is about. of salty butter, then you’ll understand what the fuss is about.
One of the joys of growing your own potatoes is the distinct variation One of the joys of growing your own potatoes is the distinct variation
in taste and texture between the different varieties, and how satisfying in taste and texture between the different varieties, and how satisfying
it is to jumit is to jumble these together in the samble these together in the same dish. Fortunately, when it come dish. Fortunately, when it comes es
to backyard potatoes, achieving this is mto backyard potatoes, achieving this is much easier than it sounds. After uch easier than it sounds. After
only a season or two of growing themonly a season or two of growing them, your potatoes will happily grow , your potatoes will happily grow
themthemselves and will often mselves and will often make a better fist of it than you did. A few ake a better fist of it than you did. A few
seasons ago I planted out two long rows of the new (to mseasons ago I planted out two long rows of the new (to me) variety purple e) variety purple
sapphire (with seductive deep blue-black skin and purple flesh that holds sapphire (with seductive deep blue-black skin and purple flesh that holds
its colour when cooked) only to end up with a paltry handful when it camits colour when cooked) only to end up with a paltry handful when it came e
timtime to harvest. Yet this sume to harvest. Yet this summmer, every timer, every time we scratched around in the e we scratched around in the
potato patch, fearing that this timpotato patch, fearing that this time we really had dug the last of theme we really had dug the last of them, ,
another bucketful of the long-forgotten purple sapphires would reveal another bucketful of the long-forgotten purple sapphires would reveal
themthemselves, each larger and mselves, each larger and more splendid than the last. ore splendid than the last.
Before growing mBefore growing my own, I found one of the frustrations of potato recipes y own, I found one of the frustrations of potato recipes
was being directed to use either ‘waxy’ or ‘floury’ types without any sense was being directed to use either ‘waxy’ or ‘floury’ types without any sense
of how this translated into specific varieties. But since having our own to of how this translated into specific varieties. But since having our own to
work with, I’ve realised that this distinction is neither very clear cut nor work with, I’ve realised that this distinction is neither very clear cut nor
terribly useful. Mterribly useful. Many comany commmon varieties —on varieties — such as desiree, royal blue and such as desiree, royal blue and
Dutch creamDutch cream — — are great all-rounders or do m are great all-rounders or do most things reasonably well. ost things reasonably well.
WWhen it comhen it comes to chips, however, nothing beats the exceptional flouriness es to chips, however, nothing beats the exceptional flouriness
of a russet burbank. In the end, freshness and deliciousness trumof a russet burbank. In the end, freshness and deliciousness trump all else, p all else,
so experimso experiment with what you have on hand —ent with what you have on hand — you m you might be surprised! ight be surprised!
Cook, farmCook, farmer and accomer and accomplished gardener Tamplished gardener Tamsin Carvan hosts cooking sin Carvan hosts cooking
workshops and seasonal lunches at her farmworkshops and seasonal lunches at her farm at Poowong East in at Poowong East in
Victoria’s Gippsland. For informVictoria’s Gippsland. For information, visit tamation, visit tamsinstable.comsinstable.com.au.au FOOD PREPARATION AND RECIPE TESTINGCHINA SQUIRRELPORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHYDAMIAN BENNETTSTYLINGLIZ KAVANAGHFOOD PREPARATION AND RECIPE TESTINGCHINA SQUIRRELPORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHYDAMIAN BENNETTSTYLINGLIZ KAVANAGH78 78 CCOOUUNNTTRYRY S T S TYYL EL E JUNE 2017JUNE 2017