Tradition is well preserved at the Foradori vineyard
in northern Italy, where Shannon Harley finds the
perfect pairing in lemon risotto and teroldego wines.KEEPING IT IN
THE FAMILY
TEROLDEGO. I ROLL THE unfamiliar word around my mouth. As I do, I let the wine
made from these grapes linger before swallowing it down and unleashing its perfume
of wet pebble, sour cherry and green almond. I’m in Trento in northern Italy enjoying this
indigenous grape variety – one that’s in the midst of a revival – with Myrtha Zierock as she
stirs a pot of risotto with one hand, a glass of the fruity red in the other. The 26-year-old
is part of the fourth generation of family winemakers at Foradori, where teroldego vines
grow in neat rows in the shadow of the Dolomites.
“It’s my grandmother’s recipe,” says Myrtha, her right arm swooshing like a symphony
conductor holding a wooden spoon as she explains how this lemon and rosemary risotto
came to be her signature dish. “When I was 12 and on summer break, I asked my Nonna
Maria if she would teach me to cook, one recipe every day for lunch. We cooked brasato
(braised beef in red wine), tagliatelle with ragu, cotoletta (veal schnitzel) with roasted
potatoes, and this risotto. It was pure luck that I found my handwritten notes a few years
ago when I moved out of home to go to university, and I have been cooking this simple
risotto for guests at our cellar door ever since.”Myrtha serves up the risotto and, as I refill our glasses, she explains how wine has been
in her family since the mid-’30s, when her great-grandfather, Vittorio Foradori, bought
the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when ththe estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when the estate. Her grandfather, Roberto, started to sell wine in 750ml bottles in an era when tt H dfth Rb t t tdt ll i i 750 lbttl i h
most was sold in bulk. Roberto died young and Myrtha’s mother, Elisabetta, took over most was sold in bulk. Roberto died young and Myrtha’s mother, Elisabetta, took over
the business in the ’80s, pushing the brand abroad and introducing biodynamic practices. the business in the ’80s, pushing the brand abroad and introducing biodynamic practices.
Myrtha has noticed a growing interest in Italian wines in Australia, especially niche Myrtha has noticed a growing interest in Italian wines in Australia, especially niche
varieties such as teroldego, as well as natural production methods. She believes her varieties such as teroldego, as well as natural production methods. She believes her
family’s wines have become so popular Down Under because they suit our climate. family’s wines have become so popular Down Under because they suit our climate.
“Foradori Teroldego Sgarzon’s bright acidity and fruit notes seem so perfect for “Foradori Teroldego Sgarzon’s bright acidity and fruit notes seem so perfect for
the beach vibes and tropical temperatures. Australians are relaxed, and this suits how the beach vibes and tropical temperatures. Australians are relaxed, and this suits how
our wines make you feel: good, settled; not drunk or unbalanced.” our wines make you feel: good, settled; not drunk or unbalanced.”
Foradori wines are set apart because they reflect natural phenomena through Foradori wines are set apart because they reflect natural phenomena through
spontaneous fermentation in amphora. This ‘natural phenomena’ might translate in the spontaneous fermentation in amphora. This ‘natural phenomena’ might translate in the
glass as the taste of salami, balsamic vinegar and a dry summer’s day. No two wines are glass as the taste of salami, balsamic vinegar and a dry summer’s day. No two wines are
the same and each bottle is a snapshot of nature when the winemaker pressed pause. the same and each bottle is a snapshot of nature when the winemaker pressed pause.
Among the lush French oak, bright cherry and aromatic florals is the taste of the earth, Among the lush French oak, bright cherry and aromatic florals is the taste of the earth,
the position of the sun, the force of the wind, the presence (or not) of rain and the exact the position of the sun, the force of the wind, the presence (or not) of rain and the exact
moment when the blade released the grapes from their vines.moment when the blade released the grapes from their vines.
Sitting with empty bowl and wine-stained glass in front of me, I understand that a Sitting with empty bowl and wine-stained glass in front of me, I understand that a
good bottle of wine is not about hype, a stylish label or wax seal (all of which Foradori good bottle of wine is not about hype, a stylish label or wax seal (all of which Foradori
can boast), but rather about the essence of the can boast), but rather about the essence of the terroirterroir, captured by the winemaker for , captured by the winemaker for
future generations to appreciate. Just like Nonna Maria’s risotto. future generations to appreciate. Just like Nonna Maria’s risotto.NONNA MARIA’S LEMON &
ROSEMARY RISOTTO
SERVES 41L (4 cups) chicken or vegetable stock
2 tbs olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
70g unsalted butter, chopped
1 white onion, finely chopped
300g carnaroli or arborio rice
1 cup (250ml) white wine
Pared zest of 2 lemons, finely chopped,
plus lemon cheeks to serve
½ cup loosely packed rosemary leaves
(from about 2 x 20cm stalks), finely
chopped, plus extra picked leaves to
serve (we used Woolworths Macro)
50g finely grated parmesan, plus extra
to servePlace stock in a saucepan over low heat to
warm through.
Meanwhile, heat oil and 20g butter in
a large deep-sided frypan over medium-
low heat. Add onion and cook, stirring
occasionally, for 4-5 minutes or until
softened. Add rice and stir for 2 minutes
or until well coated and slightly toasted.
Add wine and cook for 3-4 minutes or
until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon until almost absorbed. Stir through lemon til l t b bdStith hl
zest and finely chopped rosemary, then zest and finely chopped rosemary, then
add warm stock, 1 cup (250ml) at a time, add warm stock, 1 cup (250ml) at a time,
to the pan, stirring continuously, until fully to the pan, stirring continuously, until fully
absorbed. Repeat until all stock has been absorbed. Repeat until all stock has been
added and the rice is al dente (this should added and the rice is al dente (this should
take around 20 minutes). Stir through take around 20 minutes). Stir through
parmesan and remaining 50g butter. parmesan and remaining 50g butter.
Divide risotto among serving bowls, Divide risotto among serving bowls,
scatter with extra rosemary leaves and scatter with extra rosemary leaves and
parmesan, and drizzle with extra oil. parmesan, and drizzle with extra oil.
Serve immediately with lemon cheeks. Serve immediately with lemon cheeks.delicious.com.au/recipesdelicious.com.au/recipes
For more recipes inspired For more recipes inspired
by fabulous places.by fabulous places.“AUSTRALIANS ARE RELAXED AND THIS
SUITS HOW OUR WINES MAKE YOU FEEL:
GOOD, SETTLED; NOT UNBALANCED.”
RECIPEMARIA FORADORIFOOD PHOTOGRAPHYNIGEL LOUGHFOOD PHOTOGRAPHYNIGEL LOUGHSTYLINGKIRSTEN JENKINSSTYLINGKIRSTEN JENKINSSTENSTYLINGKIRSTEN JENKINSJENKINS@misspamplemousse@ms_pamplemousse@ms_pamplemousse138 delicious.com.au