96
T
he nation’s capital has had quite an enticing food
evolution over recent years – Monster, Temporada
and eightysix, among others, helping give Canberra
the contemporary edge it’s long craved.
Otis Dining Hall, in the lakeside suburb of
Kingston, manages to strike an engaging balance
between progressive newcomer and old faithful – with a dose
of tongue-in-cheek fun thrown in for good measure.
Housed in a former Belgian beer cafe, they’ve opened up
the space and decked it out with warming dark wood paneling,
mirrors, chandeliers, tall brown leather chairs and a long bar
(open quite late) for those that like to dine at a bench or bend
the arm after a long day.
The bustling bistro is backed by affable staff, and a wine list that
not only supports the region but looks after the bank balance too.
Chef and owner Damian Brabender (formerly of Canberra’s
award-winning Sage) is cooking with maturity by respecting the
classics as much as reviving them with a breath of fresh air.
Classic potted chicken liver pâté hides beneath a thin layer of fat.
The luxurious, velvet spread benefits from a liberal serving of crisp
baguette, while cornichons add a sharp exclamation mark.
Meanwhile, a temptingly toothsome risotto highlights the sweet
earthiness of new season peas, and the delicate grassy notes of
beautifully cooked John Dory fillets.
Brabender continues the nostalgic tip to suburban life with
a housemade rendition of Neapolitan ice cream – dense vanilla
ice cream joining fresh strawberry gelato and an aerated chocolate
mousse in a bowl of grin-inducing joy.
Otis Dining Hall has added to the ACT’s culinary evolution
without letting go of the building blocks of the past.
29 Jardine St, Kingston; thisisotis.com.auOtis Dining Hall, ACT
THE
REVIEW
4/5GQ.COM.AU SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017From top:
Beef tartare with
smoked eel;
truffle gnocchi;
Otis Dining Hall’s
Damian Brabender.TASTE+TRAVEL
FOR MORE FROM THE
GQ DIRECTORY, HEAD
TO GQ.COM.AUBest of the
newcomnewcomers when ers when
dining and drinking.dining and drinking.MelbourneMelbourne
OSTERIA ILARIAOSTERIA ILARIA
FromFrom the team the team that m that made ade
Italian sexy and salubrious Italian sexy and salubrious
with Tipo 00, comwith Tipo 00, comes a es a
mmodern bistro with a odern bistro with a
cracking cocktail and wine cracking cocktail and wine
list, and simlist, and simple ple
MMediterranean food that’d editerranean food that’d
mmake your nonna weep. ake your nonna weep.
Think charred, pink duck Think charred, pink duck
breast with radicchio, corn breast with radicchio, corn
puree and puree and cimcime di rapae di rapa, or , or
paccheripaccheri (tubed pasta) (tubed pasta)
with prawn oil and sorrel.with prawn oil and sorrel.
367 Little Bourke St; 367 Little Bourke St;
osteriailaria.comosteriailaria.comSydneySydney
ROCKERROCKER
Chef Darren Robertson Chef Darren Robertson
(Three Blue Ducks) has (Three Blue Ducks) has
joined forces with joined forces with
CamCameron Northway eron Northway
(Sweet&Chilli) to raise the (Sweet&Chilli) to raise the
bar on everyday eats with bar on everyday eats with
a heavy European edge, a heavy European edge,
served with a chilled served with a chilled
beachside vibe. Think beachside vibe. Think
unctuous Wunctuous WA occies with A occies with
crèmcrème fraiche, nasturtiume fraiche, nasturtium
and preserved citrus, or and preserved citrus, or
a puma pumpkin, sage and burnt pkin, sage and burnt
butter arriving entwined butter arriving entwined
in little elbows (Min little elbows (Macaroni). acaroni).
5/39-53 Cam5/39-53 Campbell Parade; pbell Parade;
rockerbondi.comrockerbondi.com.au.auAdelaideAdelaide
THE POT FOOD AND WTHE POT FOOD AND WINEINE
FormFormerly The Merly The Melting Pot, elting Pot,
the new Pot Food and Wthe new Pot Food and Wine ine
has brought in 2016 Chef has brought in 2016 Chef
of the Year, Emof the Year, Emmma a
MMcCaskill. The mcCaskill. The menu enu
offers whole baked offers whole baked
flounder coated in flounder coated in
togarashitogarashi, roasted baby , roasted baby
brussells sprouts with brussells sprouts with
Brasil nuts, raisins and Brasil nuts, raisins and
black vinegar, and roasted black vinegar, and roasted
duck with pickled plumduck with pickled plum..
160 King W160 King Williamilliam Rd; Rd;
thepotfoodandwine. thepotfoodandwine.
comcom.au.auWORDS: ANTHONY HUCKSTEP; RICHARD CLUNE. PHOTOGRAPHY: MARTIN OLMAN; TIM BEAN.