PRADA
You can see why
Miuccia Prada is
a key influence for
Gucci’s Alessandro
Michele. But where
he is all giddy
maximalism, she is
all about restrained
excess. For fall, she
plumbs the late ’60s
and early ’70s, a
favourite era, with
crochet scarves and
Baker Boy hats,
cosy knit turtlenecks
and coats—lots of
big coats, in fact, in
patchwork leather
and snakeskin, and
often in contrasting
textures like tweed
and fur. Then there
was a detour through
the ’50s in the tight
red cocktail dress
Lindsey Wixson wore
and the ’20s in the
feathers and crystal
fringing on hemlines.
Schizophrenic? No.
Just classic
Miuccia Prada.
MILAN
SALVATORE
FERRAGAMO
For his second collection, creative
director Fulvio Rigoni wanted to create
“dynamic, sensual, luxe, comfortable”
clothes. Inspired by a Serge Lutens TV
campaign for Jun Ropé in the ’70s, he
centred his collection on a long, lean
silhouette that was defined by the first
look: a nipped-waist leather blazer in
dove grey leather over a knit turtleneck
and a slim knee-length skirt. Svelte
dresses, some in animal prints, high-
waisted wrap skirts and soft separates
were cut for slinky movement, with a
soupçon of sportif in cropped puffer
jackets and stirrup pants. Accessories
offered punches of colour, from the violet
crocodile clutch to the platform-soled,
stacked-heel booties by the brand’s
design director for women’s footwear,
Paul Andrew.