WAVES
WAVES
Riding waves. The contrary
forces of water trying to drown
us, while giving us maximum life
at the same time.24
WIND
We surf because of wind; we don’t
surf because of wind. It’s a surfer’s
ultimate dichotomy.42
RAIN
The ancient mariners knew all
this before us, and sailing lore
speaks of how the rain tends to
calm the sea.46
CRYSTAL BALL
How to read weather maps, predict
swells and surf new swells before
the herd arrives.50
PHOTO: TMK
NIGERIA
An epic voyage deep into the
unknown and dangerous. This is
as real as it gets.62
PIPE SCRAPBOOK
Jeff Divine talks story and shows
us through his studio where his
35-year old archives of the North
Shore come to life.72
THE PRIMITIVE UNION
The ancient art of body surfing.
Why you should leave the board
on the beach next time it’s
pumping.78
HAPPY ACCIDENTS
Man has actually made more waves than
it has destroyed. Find out how seawalls,
groynes and sand pumping have all created
some of the best waves in the world.82
WAVE ODDITIES
A rank closeout became the most
feared wave in the world, a step to put
chills straight down your stringer and
waves that grow down the line.88
THE OTHER BUCKET LIST
Less obvious destinations you
must surf before you die!96
WOODEN WAVES
Nathan Ledyard talks art and
how he made our front cover.10 4