Surfing Life — Issue 337 2017

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They’re the challenging, ever-changing canvas we pin our life’s
work to. Some make us feel good, others make us feel uneasy, but
we follow their movements regardless, both in solitude and as a
tribe. Their contours hypnotise us while their form captures our
imagination. Some get paid to ride them; others pay a premium
for the privilege.

WORDS BY CRAIG BRAITHWAITE

I


s there a human pursuit purer
than riding ocean waves?
No matter how many
corporate sport types try to ram
surfing down our throats and
get the mainstream masses to
buy into it, the yin and yang of
surfing will always remain the
same. The contrary forces of
water trying to drown us, while
giving us maximum life at the
same time.
The allure of perfect, empty
waves. The waves of your life

on offer if things go right. If
they don’t, no one is around
to hear you scream. This is the
fine line, as surfers, we like to
dance upon.
Perfect WAVES of all kinds
are out there and they exist,
and the following pages are
proof of that. So, get out there
and load the car; pack some
bags; jump on a plane. Follow
the salt spray to the horizon.
This issue, we did exactly that,
and this is what we found!

YIN AND YANG


THE


WAVES


OF

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