Surfing Life — Issue 337 2017

Finding the ‘magic numbers’

for any surf spot, for any stretch

of coast, even an island chain,

and developing an intimate

three-dimensional picture of the

interaction between wind, waves

and the surf spots they break

on can take a lifetime to master,

but only a few moments to

understand.

Different coastlines and

continents will have a different

emphasis on which of the

numbers are most important. For

example: on the north coast of

NSW where I live, swell direction

is by far the most important

parameter. A seven- to eight-

second period tradewind swell

from the ENE will provide much

better surf than an 18-second

period swell from the south.

Head down to the south

coast of NSW, with its myriad

of nooks and crannies all facing

different directions, and all

three parameters are vital to

finding the magic numbers for

those particular spots. Victoria,

South Oz and West Oz, with

their coastlines angled into

the predominant open ocean

groundswells of the Indian and

Southern Ocean, and there

it’s swell period which is the

dominant factor. A swell period

under 11 seconds on the surf

coast of Victoria is not worth

getting out of bed for. But in

Queensland, that same 11-second

swell is lighting up Kirra and the

Superbank with stand-up barrels.

We have a mind and we

have senses with which we

can comprehend nature; we

can use them both to get more

uncrowded surf. Back yourself

to learn, but more than learn,

apply what you’ve learned. Over

time – with a bit of trial and

error – you’ll be able to lord it

over the ever-increasing hordes all

following the same internet-fed

pied piper – and who, by the way,

are paying for the privilege.

And, isn’t that grand?

Josh Tabone has mastered the art of surf forecasting and he is often zigging, when others zag.
This allows him time with just himself, the ocean, his camera and his thoughts. It’s no wonder
with all that space, he can be as creative as he is. PHOTO: TABONE