Unlike most ‘spilling’ waves
(the technical term for the
waves we most commonly
surf that generally break in
water that is 1.3 times as
deep as the wave is tall), a
‘surging’ or ‘collapsing’ wave
occurs when the steepness
of the ocean floor increases
dramatically over a short
distance. These surging
or collapsing kind of wave
oddities cause the swells
to stand up abruptly from
deep to shallow water, in
the process defying normal
wave physics and creating
those backless monsters we
surfers call slabs.Slabology 101:
The Step at Shipsterns. The surfing equivalent of running with the bulls. One minute
you’re speeding along, not a care in the world. Turn the corner and you’re confronted
with the step. Like a bull, it narrows its eyes, locks you in and runs straight at you. Like
they say in the classics, don’t mess with the bull if you don’t want to get the horns.
PHOTO: CHISHOLM