EXPEDITION
In the Northeast province of Manicaland, Zimbabwe, lies a 300-kilometer
long mountain range that serves as the border between Zimbabwe and
Mozambique. Known as the Eastern Highlands, it consist of three different
mountain ranges: The Chimanimani Mountains in the south, the Bvumba
Mountains in the central area, and the Nyanga Mountains to the north,
where the highest peak, 2500-meter Mount Nyanga, is found. This region
has limitless potential for outdoor enthusiasts, from downhill mountain
biking and climbing to kayaking. Though little known, it is one of my favorite
places in the world.When David Vory Sodomka, Petrýivrny, Honza Havelka, and Michal Havelka
contacted me about coming to Southern Africa for kayaking, I gave them
a few options to choose from, and was super excited when the group
decided on the rivers in the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe. I immediately
began planning. There were some rivers I knew were classics, and others I
had yet to run.Local Zimbo friends were keeping me up to date on the water levels, and
called just before the trip to say that everything was flooding and would be
too high to paddle. After a quick regroup, we decided to go to Swaziland
and the Transkei (South Africa) where levels were low but runnable while
we waited for the water to drop. We spent a week and a half paddling
what we could before heading to Zim, hoping that levels had dropped
enough. Unfortunately, Petr was unable to join for the Zim leg of the trip.Traveling in Zim can test your patience and negotiation skills. From the
border of South Africa and Zim, it is complete, if controlled, chaos.. Time
here has no meaning, and if you make the mistake of showing that you
are in a hurry you will wait even longer. There are multiple police stops on
the roads. While some will wave you past, most will stop you and try to finda reason give you a ticket. Every year there is some new traffic rule. This is
where your negotiation skills will be tested. The trick is to be friendly, ask
personal questions, and be patient. Tell the officers how much you like their
uniforms, that they look like they are in a good mood, and ask if there is any
possibility of a “discounted” ticket – you never know, it may work.Zimbabwe as a country has some big problems, most related, in my opinion,
to the government and longtime ruler Robert Mugabe. The Zimbabwean
dollar is useless anywhere else in the world. Traveling in Zim is a good
reminder that most of the day-to-day “problems” I face in my life are more
privileges than problems. Yet, the local people are almost always friendly
and always willing to help.Chimanimani was our first stop, where we met up with our local contact
Brenden and the driver he had organized for us. The plan was to paddle a
roughly 13-kilometer long section that we believed to be a first descent on
the Haroni River. I had first seen the run on Google Earth four months ago,
but had yet to see it in person.The following morning we drove to the river, trying to get as close to the put-
in as possible. Armed with Google Earth maps, we followed a few forestry
roads that left us with a steep, three-kilometer hike down to the put-in. As we
descended, the landscape changed from planted pine forest to indigenous
tropical jungle. Across the river we had a clear view of Mount Binga, the
highest peak in Mozambique. I felt overjoyed and privileged to finally be in
this magical place. While putting on, we all noticed the river had a lot of
water. We didn’t know if this was a good or bad thing, but we were all smiles in
anticipation of the unknown. According to Google Earth, it would be possible
to boat scout the first bit of the river, but later the river canyon would narrow
and become steeper, potentially forcing us to get out and scout.Honza feeling
small on the
granite heaven
that is the
Gairezi.