FEATURE
The Mekong is the 12th largest river in the world.
Linking China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia
and Vietnam, this 4,350 kilometer (2719 mile) long
waterway has served as an important trade route
for centuries. Remarkably navigable for the majority
of its length, this aquatic trade route is interrupted
only once, by |x|(Si Phan Don), Laotian for
4000 Islands. The 4000 Islands is where the upper and
lower trade routes meet, both briefly forced onto the
Laotian mainland to create Nakasong and other
small, trade-based villages. Here, thousands of small
islands and rock outcroppings, as well as islands
large enough to house guesthouses and restaurants,
huts and small agricultural plots, or patches of thick
jungle, are separated by torrents of whitewater that
render the river un-navigable for heavily laden boats.In the late 19th century, French colonialists made
repeated attempts to navigate the falls in an effort to develop an unbroken
trade route, but their efforts failed. Though motivations differed, these men
were ahead of their time. It wasn’t until 2000 that Australian Mick O’Shea
convinced Mikey Abbott, Alex Nicks, Tyler Curtis and others to go and explore
the region, introducing an incredible opportunity for whitewater kayaking to
the world.Planning a mission to Si Phon Don can be intimidating, but with a bit
of information and planning, it is easy to have the trip of a lifetime. Easily
accessible class IV-V whitewater, cheap food and accommodation, a good
nightlife, a relaxed island vibe, smiling locals, and the river to yourself: this is
a dream destination for class V senders, class IV to V kayakers looking for a
little adventure, or a paddler seeking a vacation compromise with a non-
paddling partner.GETTING YOUR BEARINGS:
Once you arrive, you’ll be fired up to get on the river. While finding stuff
to paddle is as simple as paddling downstream, when the river is 14
kilometers wide things can initially seem confusing and complicated.
You may have had a look at Google Earth, or even watched Alex Nicks’
Jehovas Wetness, but nothing beats seeing things personally. The best idea
is to hire a bike, and head down to Tat Somphamit Waterfall Park off the
west side of Don Khon.When you cross the bridge from Don Det to Don
Khon you will be asked to buy a ticket to the waterfall
park. Pay the fee. A British crew tried to avoid the
fees and kayaking was temporarily banned in the
area. The fee of 35,000 kip ($4.30 USD) helps maintain
an amicable relationship with locals and keeps
access open to one of the most unique kayaking
destinations in the world. Pay this fee EVERY time you
enter the park. It may be worth buying an extra few
tickets just in case an official turns up and asks for
one, even out in the more isolated channels.At the waterfall park you’ll get an indication of the
power of the Mekong. You’ll also get a sense of the
sharpness of the rocks, the density of the jungle,
the warmth of the water. You may notice human-
sized fish traps in some of the channels outflows, or
the availability of drinking water, tuktuks and food
at the park. Keep these in mind when out exploring.WHITEWATER:
Si Phan Don has an incredible amount of runnable whitewater. There are four
general zones to paddle, each with their own hazards and character.Somphamit Waterfall Park: Definitely the easiest place to get bang-for-your-
buck boating, and a good place to warm up. Morning Glory is a two-stage
drop with your choice of lead in: a ten-footer or a stout hole before a 25-footer.
Gutter, or Easy Channel, is a fast, class IV-V chute to the right of Morning Glory
that finishes in the same pool as Triple, a series of drops Brits rave about. Then
there is Mega-Slide; you’ll know it when you see it. Li Phi is the prize jewel of this
area and most build up to it. Tread lightly, as the falls are believed to be a spirit
trap. This is due to bodies once found in Si Phan Don following wars in the north.Central Channels: There is a worthy amount of whitewater here that is not
visible from any of the major islands or mainlands. Volume and Deadcow, the two
major channels, each have multiple channels running into them. Watch out for
Gun-Barrel, parallel to Volume. A seemingly welcoming walled-in chute hides a
horrendous entry hole, and a backed up exit. At medium to higher flows, scout
it thoroughly. Between Volume and Deadcow is another channel that requires
higher flows. You can exit by climbing over the island on river left after Tricky. There
is plenty more out there to find, just be sure to check the outflow for fish traps!“Keep in mind that your
Laotian family hosts may
observe some traditions or
beliefs that you do not; be
sensitive. While relaxed,
Laos is a communist country.
Respect any house or island
rules, as the authorities
may punish your host family
for your behavior.”
Sam Ricketts boofs
out of a juicy triple
drop. This drop is
accessible from the
Somphamit Waterfall
Park. It is amazing to
see how much the
rapids change from
day to day as the
level drops. Photo:
Lissa Hufford