Cambodian Side:Heading over to this area is a cool mini-mission worth
doing a couple of times. Ferry upstream towards river-right for much longer
than you think before dropping down to the ledge. When you do drop
down, do so with caution, as at higher flows you might paddle yourself into
a place you do NOT want to be. Mr. Clean, the second channel in from the
Cambodian mainland, may be the most picturesque of the 14-kilometer (9-
mile) expanse. This 20- to 30-foot (6- to 10-meter) falls is intimidating but plays
out well. On a recent trip in January 2017, Ari Walker ran it six times in a row.Back Channels/Laos Side: This area is quite a bit of work, has a savage
amount of fish traps, and is completely flow dependent. Construction for
a dam has also begun here, so paddle with caution. The first few channels
east of Don Khon are smaller and require higher flows to run. You MUST check
the outflows, as everything has fish traps at the bottom. The furthest channel
east from Don Det/Don Khon next to the Laos mainland is the biggest in the
4000 Islands. This is where Khone Phapheng Falls thunders relentlessly. Also
known as “Big Falls,” it is the biggest waterfall in Southeast Asia. Chris Korbulic
and Ben Stookesberry dabbled with some of the fringe drops, but as far as
we know no one has paddled the falls’ main channels. It will probably take a
marriage ending or a drastic development in technology before someone
does. Even so, it’s worth a look.The bar is the take-out for most of the whitewater in 4000 Islands. After
paddling, stop in and grab a can of coke to kill any bugs from the river and
make friends. If you’re spending a few days at the waterfalls or hiking up
river-right of the "mega-slide" to access some of the central channels, you
can even ask to leave your kayaks at the bar.You can hike back up the channels and take a pre-organized boat to Don
Det, but they are pricey, and it can be hard to establish when and where to
meet. When seeking out the goods on the Cambodian side, you can take a
taxi back upstream and then grab the ferry back to Don Det. In 2015 Liam
Kelly managed to sort a ride for $15 USD without much hassle but recently
crews have been paying double, and experiencing extortion along the way.
It is simpler to ferry and attain back across to a beach about two kilometers
from the park and work it out from there.Getting home from the back channels is more difficult. Be wary paddling
here, as they have a lot more fish traps. Construction on a dam has begun
in one channel, so access to that area may be restricted or lost in thefuture. If you head into the back channels, flag down boats for a ride back
to Don Khon, or be prepared to paddle to the Laos mainland and take
a tuktuk back to Nakasong. This is a long and expensive option, so have
plenty of cash.Note: if you are bringing a drone, which is an incredibly useful tool for
scouting and navigating around the Mekong, be discreet and do not use
it where people can see you. People are unfamiliar with them, and officials
have a very hard line about using them without a proper permit.WHEN TO GO:
As with all kayaking trips, flows can make or break your trip. Fortunately, at
4000 Islands there are numerous channels that run at a wide variety of flows.
The general consensus is that the best time to be there is between December
and the end of January. Australian Lachie Carracher once went in September
and experienced "biblical" flows. The Gradient & Water crew of Jordy Searle,
Ari Walker, TT Cakekinson, and Sam Ellis had near perfect flows from mid-
January, paddling all but two channels as the river dropped more than three
meters (10 feet) over a two-week stay.FEATURE
Lachie Carracher ferrying
back to Don Khong after
a day exploring some
central channels. You
will be pressed to find a
kayak destination that
requires you to ferry more
than the Si Pan Don.
Photo: Sam Ricketts.While drones are
useful for scouting,
filming and getting
a sense of the
Mekong’s scale, be
careful using them
without a proper
permit.