HOW TO GET THERE:
Getting to the 4000 Islands section of the Mekong is not particularly easy.
Ideally, you fly into Pakse in Southern Laos, and then catch a bus for the four-
hour ride to Si Phan Don. However, because of expensive flights and poor
connections, most paddlers choose to fly to larger airports in neighboring
countries and travel overland to Laos.Bangkok: From the airport, get a taxi to the Bangkok Bus Terminal, where
an overnight bus to Pakse should cost about $50. Look for a provider that
has a set price, and be pushy about getting your boat on. When you go
through the Chong Mek Border Crossing, make sure you pay for your visa,
get a stamp in your passport and keep any paperwork that you’re given.
Sam Ellis thought he’d outsmarted customs on his way in, but nearly three
hours of intense questioning on his return to Bangkok proved otherwise. In
Pakse, grab another bus to Nakasong, which is the settlement that services
Don Det and Don Khon, and you’re there. Return is easier, as a booking
operator can get you from Don Det or Don Khon all the way to Bangkok
under one booking. It might be an assortment of rides, but as long as you
have a physical ticket, they’ll get you there.Siam Reap:This is the major airport close to the Cambodian - Laotian border
and might be appealing as you can couple the paddling trip with a visit to
Angkor Wat to get some custom suits made. You’ll have to stay one night
in Cambodia, so sort accommodation beforehand. Once you’ve stowed
all your kit, start organizing a ride. Be prepared to barter. You may want to
show your kayaks to the bus driver to ensure you can take them. On their
recent mission, the GW crew ended up chartering a van from Siam Seap to
Nakasong. While more expensive, in a van the journey is significantly shorter,
the trip is more comfortable, you can take your boats, and you should have
an easier time at the border. Mr. Heng is based in Stung Treng (088 5 955 950).
He speaks enough English to make an agreement and really looks after his
clients. He helped the Kiwi crew after they had been hustled and left semi-
stranded. Once in Nakasong, paddle across the river, or get a $2 ticket from
the "office" with the green roof to the right of the boat ramp for the ferry.
Either way you’re in Si Phan Don!Vientiane:Though more expensive than other flight options, Vientiane
avoids the hassle of border crossings and visas, probably evening out overall
costs. This is a good option if want to keep it simple or have limited time. From
the airport you’ll pay anywhere from $90-$150 USD for the twenty-two hour
bus journey down to Pakse, and then another $8 - $15 USD for the bus fromPakse to Nakasong. The first leg is in a sleeper bus that has shared beds. They
are more than a single, but not quite a double, so, if you’re travelling solo,
or you are the odd man out of a group, make sure to befriend someone
small because you’re really going to get up close and personal with that
someone.When traveling, make sure you have USD with you. The Laos visa costs $30
USD, plus $2 - $5 USD to leave Thailand, and another $2 - $5 USD administration
fee to enter Laos. Prepare to pay again when you leave. Be sure to keep all
your paperwork, tickets, receipts, and check that all have your departure
location, destination, and the price paid noted.ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD:
Once you have made it to Nakasong, base yourself in Don Det or Don Khon.
Don Khon is the bigger island next to a waterfall park. This is where Mick and
crew stayed for their exploratory trip in the early 2000s. It has since become
the more expensive of the two islands and generally attracts an older and
quieter crowd. Don Det is the smaller, cheaper and more youthful island. The
majority of crews nowadays have chosen to base out of Don Det. The beta
below pertains entirely to Don Det.Transportation
Laos Style.FEATURE
Sam Ricketts
charging out “The
Gutter.” This multi-
stage rapid involves
seal launching and
six moves, but is
easily lapped. Photo:
Lissa Hufford