Accommodation:Find a place on the Sunset (west) side of the islands. There
are a variety of places to stay, from the plush Mama Luerth’s Guest House for
around $10 USD a night, to mid-range places like Oi’s Place or Tena One for $5
USD a night, to cheaper options with shared bathrooms and no hot water. The
further south you go, the more ‘hippie’ or ‘rasta’ the demographic becomes.
Keep in mind that your Laotian family hosts may observe some traditions or
beliefs that you do not; be sensitive. While relaxed, Laos is a communist country.
Respect any house or island rules as the authorities may punish your host family
for your behavior.Food/Drinks:One thing that makes this destination special is the abundance
of cheap and delicious food and drink. It is easy to find fresh spring rolls for $2
USD, incredible Chicken Tikka Masala for $4 USD or a bucket of Gin & Tonic.
Explore food options, but some reliable places to fall back on are Dalom and
4000 Islands Bar for great breakfast, Oi’s Place and One More Bar for small
meals, and any Indian place. The Kebab Place on the sunrise side also has
kayaker-sized portions of tasty food. Beware of Lao Lao, the cheapest, foulest
tasting liquor on earth. Try it, but proceed with caution.WHAT TO TAKE:
You do not need much, but a few fundamentals will make things easier and
more comfortable.USD: This is always handy to have with you,particularly in smaller denominations.
This will help with border crossings, avoid expensive transaction fees when
getting local currency in Laos, and can be used to pay for transportation to
and from 4000 Islands.Good Shoes:Hot days and warm water might lead you to believe that
you can get away with a pair of light water shoes. Don’t. The rock in Laos
is extremely sharp and abrasive, and you will be walking on it a LOT. Bring
something with a solid sole and good grip—you will be thankful.Sun Protection:It seems like a no-brainer, but if you forget to bring your own
it will cost you. Sunblock is exuberantly expensive in Laos, and after a few
long days in the crispy sun, you’ll wish you had brought a bottle from home. A
bucket hat is a good idea, especially if you’re planning on exploring channels
that take more time to get to.PaddlingKit: Outside of your standard gear, a few items become fundamental.Bring a long-sleeve collared shirt to paddle in, as you cannot buy one in Laos.
Jordy Searle took a shorty and almost ended up with heat stroke. Having a
Lifestraw®, or a water filter that fits in your PFD is also pretty handy.Smartphone (with waterproof case): Encouraging kayakers to take a
smartphone may seem redundant, but having one with a waterproof case
will save you a lot of energy and time pulling yourself between spider-ridden
bushy islands while swearing at your mates. Having Google Earth with you
all the time will help to coordinate your location so you drop down into the
correct channels without getting lost.Two weeks is plenty of time to find and paddle everything, factoring in a recon
mission, rest/hangover day(s) and sightseeing. Sam Ellis summed it up nicely,
“Pound a couple of liters of water before a cheap breakfast, lather on sun-
block, take two liters of water with you, paddle until you’re hungry, walk/bike/
tuk-tuk back for a feed, then paddle more or grab a few cocktails. Repeat.”Thousands of
tourists flock to the
Somphamit Waterfall
Park every year. There
is a walking track,
complete with a bar
right beside five class
IV - V rapids.Enjoying a bite to eat
with the locals before
a day on the river.
Photo: Lissa HuffordFEATURE