Bon Appetit - October 2017

(Nancy Kaufman) #1

S T A R T E R S 2


Breakfast


Is the New


(Power)


Lunch


Lunch is good, and
drinks are fine (if and when
I can swing them), but
if you really want to meet
with me when I’m at
my best, please: Let’s have
breakfast. Not only am
I adrenalized from either
biking or getting my kid
to school on time, but I’m
also full of fresh ideas that
haven’t yet been zapped
by zero-inboxing or
meeting No. 7. And when
it comes to the food, it’s
win-win all around.
To start, there’s never
been a more exciting time
to eat out before noon.

The new wave of all-day
cafés are serving dishes so
good, so far beyond two
eggs and toast, there’s
a reason they’re often kept
on the menu until late
afternoon, whether it’s the
barley and roasted veg
with za’atar dressing
at L’estudio, the avocado
toast with lavender-cured
salmon and a honey egg
at De Maria, orthe arctic
char tostada at Atla. (And
that’s just New York!) Add
to this serious coffee and tea
programs, inspired juices,
and pastries that always find
their way into my tote bag
for the afternoon.
Breakfast puts the power
back in power meeting
simply because what
you’re not having is a glass
of wine and, sure, why
not? Let’s share a dessert.
No, breakfast meetings
are short and sweet
(or savory). In fact, after
an early breakfast meeting
the other day, I managed
to fit in two more meetings—
and three more delicious
dishes—all before noon.
Remind me again why
we still do lunch?
CHRISTINE MUHLKE

L’estudio’s
owner makes
beautiful
ceramics for the
beautiful
breakfasts.

MORE GREAT PLACES TO BRAINSTORM OVER BREAKFAST Cellar Door Provisions, Chicago Destroyer,
Los Angeles Res Ipsa, Philadelphia Tartine Manufactory, San Francisco June’s All Day, Austin Kismet, Los Angeles
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

THE ARGUMENT
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