22  OCTOBER 2017

STEP 1

Bitter botanicals

like gentian

root and a blend

of citrus peels,

herbs, spices,

barks, and seeds

are macerated

or infused in

a neutral spirit

or wine base.

THREE WAYS TO DRINK IT

APERITIVO

Campari

and soda is

a classic.

COCKTAIL

Amaro and

rye are good

partners.

NEAT

Sip Amaro

Lucano after

a big meal.

STARTERS

Italian amari reign supreme, but small-

batch regional American amari

are getting exciting. Three to seek out:

Combine 2 oz. amaro

(such as Amaro

Montenegro) and ½ oz.

fresh lime juice in a

cocktail shaker filled with

ice. Cover and shake

vigorously until shaker

is very cold, about

20 seconds. Strain into

4 shot glasses.

Bittersweet

Symphony

What you need to know

about every bartender’s

latest obsession: amaro

BY BRAD THOMAS PARSONS

Amaro Angeleno

(Ventura, CA, $35)

As Californian as

the Beach Boys, this

golden-hued amaro

is made with an

unaged brandy

and a fortified wine

base distilled

from local grapes

and rounded out

with herbs and

California oranges.

Swap it in for

Aperol in a spritz.

Standard Amaro

(Philadelphia, $40)

This collaboration

from Philly’s

Rowhouse Spirits

and Standard Tap’s

SO, HOW’S IT MADE?

USA! USA!

3

MAKE THIS SHOT

FIVE SPOTS THAT

GEEK OUT ON AMARI

Amor y Amargo (NYC)

Barnacle (Seattle)

Billy Sunday (Chicago)

Luca (Lancaster,PA)

Masseria (Washington, D.C.)

Maybe it’s that plunking

down a bottle of amaro in the

center of the table after a

meal makes us feel like we’re

in a Fellini film. Or the fact

that bartenders are forever in

search of the next thing to add

dimension to cocktails. Whatever

the reason, there’s no cooler

booze right now than amaro.

The Italian word for “bitter,”

amaro (plural: amari) represents

the collective class of regionally

inspired bittersweet, herbal

liqueurs traditionally served as

a digestivo. They can vary

dramatically in style: Averna,

Cynar, Fernet-Branca, Campari—

all amaro. But one thing

holds true across the category:

We’re into it.

STEP 2

The liquid is

filtered, then sugar

and water

are often added.

STEP 3

Before bottling,

it’s often rested

or barrel-aged to

marry the flavors.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MATTHEW KELLY

Amaro often

has, ahem,

cough syrup

vibes (in a

good way!)

that serve

as a nod to

its original

medicinal

use.

T H E 3 6 0

William Reed is

made from distilled

Pennsylvania

wine, charred local

peaches, and

bitter orange peels,

then aged in rye

whiskey barrels. Try

it affogato-style—

pour warm espresso

and a shot of

amaro over gelato.

Fernet Michaud

(Portland, ME, $35)

Portland’s Liquid

Riot Bottling Co.

makes Maine’s first

fernet, which rests

in local blueberry

wine barrels.

Best enjoyed neat.

From SRV in Boston

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