to mark the centre. Pin the gusset
to one of the outer bag panels, right
sides together; start by pinning the
centre crease of the gusset to the
crease in the centre of the bottom
edge of the bag panel; then pin the
top corners together; and then add
pins between them, easing the bottom
corners to fi t. See Diagram 6. If
necessary, make small snips – no
longer than^1 ⁄ 4 in – into the edge of
the gusset only, to achieve good fi t.22
Stitch the edges together
using a^1 ⁄ 2 in seam. Trim the
seam to^1 ⁄ 4 in. Repeat to sew the other
long raw edge of the gusset to the
other outer bag panel. Turn the bag
right side out and fi nger press the
seams.23
Pin the strap connectors to the
gusset, centring them between
the left and right edges of the gusset
and matching the raw edges. Baste
them in place using a^1 ⁄ 4 in seam
allowance. See Diagram 7.Pockets
Slip pocket24
Match the two rectangles cut
for the slip pocket, right sides
together. Stitch them together around
all four edges, leaving a 2in opening
in the bottom (7in) edge. Trim the
seam allowance to^1 ⁄ 4 in, and clip the
corners. Turn the pocket right side
out and gently push the seams out.
Topstitch^1 ⁄ 8 in from the long edge that
doesn’t have the opening in it. This
will be the top edge of the pocket.25
Turn in the raw edges of the
opening and press. Pin the slip
pocket on the right side of one of the
lining panels, 4in down from the top
edge and centred between the left
and right edges. Topstitch the left,
bottom and right edges to secure it,
backstitching at the beginning and
end of the stitching.
Zippered welt pocket26
To make a zippered welt
pocket for the other lining
panel, fold the lining panel in half, left
and right edges matching, and crease
to mark its centre. Fold one of the 6
x 8in rectangles for the pocket in half,
matching the 6in edges, and crease
to mark its centre.27
Draw three light pencil lines on
the wrong side of the pocket
rectangle 1in, 1^1 ⁄ 4 in and 1^1 ⁄ 2 in down
from the top edge. On each line,
measure out 3in from the centre crease
in each direction and draw vertical
lines. On the centre line, measure in(^1) ⁄ 2 in from each end and make a mark;
draw a line connecting this mark to
the corners. See Diagram 8.
28
Pin this pocket rectangle, right
sides together, to the lining
panel; the top edge of the pocket
rectangle should be 1^1 ⁄ 2 in from the top
of the panel and centred between the
left and right edges. Machine stitch
on the outer rectangle you draw in
Step 27. Use a small pair of sharp
scissors to cut on the line across the
middle of the rectangle through both
layers of fabric; then cut carefully into
the corners on the angled lines
without cutting any of the stitches.
29
Push the pocket fabric through
the cut, to the wrong side of the
lining panel, and press it fl at. You
should have a neatly seamed,
rectangular opening in the lining panel.
30
Centre the 15cm (6in) zipper
behind the opening with the
zipper pull facing outwards and pin
it in place. Machine stitch all the way
around the rectangle, very close to
the edge, to secure the zipper in
place, reinforcing two to three times
across each short end of the zipper.
See Diagram 9. Be careful not to
Diagram 7
Diagram 8
LISA’S TRIMMING
TIPS Make sure you trim
those seams! A key to achieving
a professional, well-finished bag
is to trim the seams as you go,
as directed in the instructions.
Bags can get bulky in places,
and it’s disappointing to get to
the end of a project and find the
bag is too thick to do the final
row of topstitching. Trim the
seams as you go and, if need be,
trim the fleece/batting/bag
foam out of the seams as well.
You’ll be glad you did.
View of the inside from the top
1in
3in 3in
½in
Homespun 91
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