S
ydney’s culinary landscape is ydney’s culinary landscape is
diverse and dynamic. Nowhere diverse and dynamic. Nowhere
is that more apparent than the is that more apparent than the
central business district, where new venues central business district, where new venues
arrive at a frenzied pace. We rounded up arrive at a frenzied pace. We rounded up
the most impressive cafes, bars and the most impressive cafes, bars and
restaurants to appear in the past year or so. restaurants to appear in the past year or so.
Each has a singular charm, sensational Each has a singular charm, sensational
food, inviting interiors and thoughtful food, inviting interiors and thoughtful
service. We looked high and low, at service. We looked high and low, at service. We looked high and low, at
heralded players and unsung ones, to heralded players and unsung ones, to
bold-face chefs and lesser-known talents. bold-face chefs and lesser-known talents.
The emphasis is on the new, so revamped The emphasis is on the new, so revamped
favourites including La Rosa in The Strand favourites including La Rosa in The Strand
Arcade and Matt Moran’s Aria didn’t make Arcade and Matt Moran’s Aria didn’t make
the list, despite being big-hitters. Talking of the list, despite being big-hitters. Talking of
Moran, his multi-level food temple in Moran, his multi-level food temple in
Barangaroo is scheduled to open before Barangaroo is scheduled to open before
Christmas. In the meantime, these are our Christmas. In the meantime, these are our
top picks of the CBD’s freshest addresses.top picks of the CBD’s freshest addresses.11
NNOO-FUSS FINERY-FUSS FINERY
Swede Joachim Borenius possesses an Swede Joachim Borenius possesses an
impressive CV, having worked with Heston impressive CV, having worked with Heston
Blumenthal in London, Thomas Keller in Blumenthal in London, Thomas Keller in
New York and Sydney’s Mark Best. The New York and Sydney’s Mark Best. The
chef’s expertise is apparent at chef’s expertise is apparent at chef’s expertise is apparent at Bouche on Bouche on Bouche on
Bridge Bridge (6 Bridge St; boucheonbridge.(6 Bridge St; boucheonbridge.
com), where the plates wow with com), where the plates wow with
seasonality, intrepidity and a Scandinavian seasonality, intrepidity and a Scandinavian
rusticity. Borenius describes his ethos as rusticity. Borenius describes his ethos as
“fine-dining without the fuss”; think “fine-dining without the fuss”; think
Moreton Bay bug served simply Moreton Bay bug served simply Moreton Bay bug served simplywith fennel on brioche, succulent pork with fennel on brioche, succulent pork
chop with brussels sprouts and pears, and chop with brussels sprouts and pears, and
jumbo-sized grilled broccoli with tangy jumbo-sized grilled broccoli with tangy
almond dressing. An under-the-radar gem. almond dressing. An under-the-radar gem.22
GROGROUNDS UNDS
BREAKINBREAKINGG
It’s fitting that the It’s fitting that the Grounds of the CityGrounds of the City
(500 George St; thegroundscity.com.au) (500 George St; thegroundscity.com.au)
exudes a caffeinated vibe. This next-level exudes a caffeinated vibe. This next-level exudes a caffeinated vibe. This next-level
coffee house, spiffed up with stained glass, coffee house, spiffed up with stained glass, coffee house, spiffed up with stained glass, coffee house, spiffed up with stained glass,
vintage curios and Art Deco-style pendant vintage curios and Art Deco-style pendant vintage curios and Art Deco-style pendant
lights, has wide-ranging appeal. The lights, has wide-ranging appeal. The
breakfast menu combines classics like breakfast menu combines classics like
buttermilk pancakes with fancier fare such buttermilk pancakes with fancier fare such
as wild mushroom as wild mushroom feuilletéfeuilleté with sheep’s with sheep’s
curd, a lofty puff pastry. Lunch standouts curd, a lofty puff pastry. Lunch standouts curd, a lofty puff pastry. Lunch standouts curd, a lofty puff pastry. Lunch standouts
include chargrilled prawns, grain-fed include chargrilled prawns, grain-fed
burgers and a rich seafood platter fit for burgers and a rich seafood platter fit for
Hugo Boss-clad hedonists. Despite the Hugo Boss-clad hedonists. Despite the
swarming patrons, service is friendly, swarming patrons, service is friendly, swarming patrons, service is friendly,
attentive and, when the dessert trolley attentive and, when the dessert trolley attentive and, when the dessert trolley
ambles by or the filtered coffee is being ambles by or the filtered coffee is being ambles by or the filtered coffee is being
poured, enjoyably theatrical. poured, enjoyably theatrical.33
POWER MODEPOWER MODE
On the ground floor of the Four On the ground floor of the Four
Seasons Hotel, Seasons Hotel, Mode Mode (modekitchenandbar.(modekitchenandbar.
com.au) is an oasis of luxe. Design firm com.au) is an oasis of luxe. Design firm
Luchetti Krelle gilded the interior with fluted Luchetti Krelle gilded the interior with fluted
glass panels, leather armchairs, velvet glass panels, leather armchairs, velvet
banquettes and spherical Tom Dixon lights. banquettes and spherical Tom Dixon lights.
The menu, by Italian-born chef Francesco The menu, by Italian-born chef Francesco
Mannelli, is equally alluring, with deep Mannelli, is equally alluring, with deep
dives into Mediterranean classics such as dives into Mediterranean classics such as
buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes and basil,
tender wood-fired octopus, and risotto with tender wood-fired octopus, and risotto with
truffle shavings. Mode’s midday to 10pm truffle shavings. Mode’s midday to 10pm truffle shavings. Mode’s midday to 10pm
hours mean it’s a magnet for tourists, city hours mean it’s a magnet for tourists, cityworkers and gourmands who stop for lunch, workers and gourmands who stop for lunch,
dinner or a late-night snack. A convenient dinner or a late-night snack. A convenient
mode of dining that’s to be applauded. mode of dining that’s to be applauded.44
CAFE NOTORIETYCAFE NOTORIETY
City cafes can be unimaginative City cafes can be unimaginative
spaces in lobbies, with pedestrian food to spaces in lobbies, with pedestrian food to
match. Not match. Not Regiment Regiment (333 George St; (333 George St;
regimentcbd.com.au), a stylish haven at regimentcbd.com.au), a stylish haven at
Regimental Square devised by owner Zach Regimental Square devised by owner Zach
Hiotis. The polished venue, with indoor Hiotis. The polished venue, with indoor
and outdoor seating for 28, blends and outdoor seating for 28, blends
blackbutt timber, Córdoba marble and blackbutt timber, Córdoba marble and
brass detailing. The coffee, from Five brass detailing. The coffee, from Five brass detailing. The coffee, from Five
Senses, is prepared on two sleek Synesso Senses, is prepared on two sleek Synesso
espresso machines. And the menu is espresso machines. And the menu is
scrumptious. Mashed mint peas, Persian scrumptious. Mashed mint peas, Persian
feta and preserved lemon on sourdough feta and preserved lemon on sourdough feta and preserved lemon on sourdough
for breakfast; at lunch, offerings extend to for breakfast; at lunch, offerings extend to for breakfast; at lunch, offerings extend to
hearty bowls filled with soba noodles, hearty bowls filled with soba noodles, hearty bowls filled with soba noodles,
grilled zucchini or turmeric cauliflower and grilled zucchini or turmeric cauliflower and
topped with your preferred protein. Little topped with your preferred protein. Little
wonder patrons happily queue for a spot. wonder patrons happily queue for a spot.55
SPANISH FLYSPANISH FLY
It all starts (and concludes) with It all starts (and concludes) with It all starts (and concludes) with
vino at vino at BalcónBalcón by Tapavinoby Tapavino (17 Bligh St; (17 Bligh St;
balconrestaurant.com.au), a fine-looking balconrestaurant.com.au), a fine-looking
Spanish-themed tapas bar whose walls are Spanish-themed tapas bar whose walls are
lined with wine bottles. Chef Todd Garratt lined with wine bottles. Chef Todd Garratt
oversees a sprawling, splendid menu that oversees a sprawling, splendid menu that
ranges from pigs’ ears and padron peppers ranges from pigs’ ears and padron peppers
to kingfish cruda and lamb shoulder. to kingfish cruda and lamb shoulder.
JamonJamonJamon, cheese and desserts, such as Pedro , cheese and desserts, such as Pedro , cheese and desserts, such as Pedro
Ximenez-flavoured ice cream with a shot of Ximenez-flavoured ice cream with a shot of
espresso, all pair perfectly with suggested espresso, all pair perfectly with suggested espresso, all pair perfectly with suggested
wines. The ‘wines. The ‘balcónbalcón’ of the title is a graceful ’ of the title is a graceful
deck for languid lunches where you can deck for languid lunches where you can
quaff wines from albariño to tempranillo.quaff wines from albariño to tempranillo.quaff wines from albariño to tempranillo. BANKSII, BISTRO GUILLAUME, LONG CHIMNIKKI TOBANKSII, BISTRO GUILLAUME, LONG CHIMNIKKI TOMODEANSON SMART & BILL CHENCHAT CHAIBRETT STEVENSMODEANSON SMART & BILL CHENCHAT CHAIBRETT STEVENS