Australian Flying — November-December 2017

scenic viewing out the windscreen.
I find it difficult to put into words
that low level f light along the
beach of the Gulf of Carpentaria.
Countless creeks and big old
rivers like the Leichhardt and the
Nicholson that drain into the gulf
do so with the utmost theatre,
twisting and winding themselves
into natural works of the most
stunning art.
We leave our aircraft at Gove,
due to insufficient parking
room for our four aircraft at the
little airstrip on Bremer Island.
The need for a short charter
hop is annoying, but seemingly
necessary, according to local
charter operator, Laynhapuy
Aviation. Once on the island, we’re
transferred to our accommodation
at Banubanu Beach Retreat, where
hosts Trevor and Helen have spent
the last 12 years developing the
retreat into what it is today.
We spend our days swimming
off the pristine beach in front of
our tents, walking the various
bush and beach tracks, and
generally watching our blood
pressure ease off. One evening,
Helen (by now everyone’s
favourite hostess of the trip) turns
on an impromptu cooking class
in her rustic, open plan kitchen,
keen to share a few of her personal
recipes. Spending time with
Helen becomes one of my more
memorable experiences on this
trip. A relatively f ledgling tourist
operation with a few crinkles to
iron out, there is still a lot to love
about Banubanu.

Arnhem Land

& Kakadu

Clear skies and a tailwind make
for an easy onward f light across
Arnhem Land. At this height we
remain outside Darwin’s airspace
step, and have missed Tindal’s
latest war games by a day, but there
is plenty of traffic around Jabiru
where we call in for fuel. It’s hot
today, so we linger in the terminal’s
aircon before setting off for the
airstrip at Swim Creek Station,
half an hour to the north-west, and
the gateway to our next three-day
stopover at Bamurru Plains.

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November – December 2017 AUSTRALIAN FLYING

wouldn’t recommend a dud.

After three nights at

Bamurru, someone mentions

dirty washing. Now there’s a

grounding concept, and one of

the reasons it makes a lot of sense

to inject a night at Kununurra in

here. Tomorrow we’re heading

remote again.

Charter central

Flying up the Ord River north

of Kununurra, past Wyndham

and out to the coast of the Joseph

Bonaparte Gulf is one spectacular

Bremer Island

Numbulwar

Burketown

Winton

Bourke

Camden

Balranald

Mildura

Blinman

Leigh Creek

Alice Springs

Halls Creek

Walcott Inlet

Mitchell Plateau

Kununurra

Swim Creek

Jabiru

Situated just west of the

Kakadu border, on the Mary

River f loodplains, Bamurru is an

extraordinary bush experience.

Watching herds of huge Asian

buffalo strolling a few feet from

your tent each morning and

evening, you’d be forgiven for

thinking you’d strayed to the game

parks of Africa.

This system is home to one

of the largest crocodile densities

in the world. On a river cruise

along the Sampan Creek one

night, we stop counting at 15 big

salties lazing metres away on the

muddy banks. It’s a nature lover’s

paradise, with wallabies, magpie

geese and endless other varieties of

creatures. Hot tip – get amongst it

all on a guided airboat tour,

a la Miami Vice.

Yes, you’ll pay top dollar but

sometimes you just have to – the

professional staff and gourmet

catering at Bamurru are second to

none. Sorry, but I’m not here to

bolster your Super balance, you

should know me better than that

by now. I’m the one who wants to

rip it out of your wallet and make

you spend it here and now, with

the people you love, in the aircraft

you adore, while you still have the

faculties to enjoy it. Trust me, I

ABOVE: 4400 nautical

miles of winter touring

through the outback and

tropics.

BELOW: Fly-in sanctuary

in stylish ex-shearers’

quarters on the shore of

the beautiful Lake Paika

(lakepaikaaccommodation.

com.au)