76 MOTORCYCLE CLASSICS September/October 2017
MOTORCYCLE CLASSICS
HOW-TO
11
Next, install the new bushings. We
pressed them in using a simple
homemade tool made up of a piece of
all-thread rod, with washers and nuts at
each end, steadily tightening the nuts
until the shoulders of the bushings seated
against the swingarm.14
With the bushings honed, our
swingarm pivot pin (visible inside
the bushing) slipped into place. With the
pivot pin installed, lightly grease the dust
caps and install them on either side.17
With the swingarm pivot bolt
in place, thread the pivot bolt
nut onto the bolt and then torque it to
51-65ft/lb. We went for the middle of the
range, 58ft/lb.12
Here’s one of the bushings fully
seated in the swingarm. With the
new bushings installed, we found the
swingarm pivot pin to be a tight fit.15
Using a grease gun, push the old
grease out of the swingarm pivot
bolt until only fresh grease comes out of
the lubricating holes in the bolt.18
Next, using a grease gun, grease
the swingarm pivot until fresh
grease just starts to show around the
dust caps. Reinstall the rear wheel, the
drive chain, the brake stay and the brake
linkage. Adjust the chain as necessary
and tighten the axle nut, making sure to
reinstall the cotter pin.10
Here’s one of our old bushings
removed from the swingarm.
Before moving on to installing the new
bushings, clean any debris or grease from
the inside of the swingarm tube.
16
Push the swingarm back into
place in the frame, then insert
the swingarm pivot bolt through the
swingarm from the right side.
13
To make the swingarm pin a
sliding fit in the bushings, we
lightly honed them with a small brake
cylinder hone, removing only enough
material to allow a tight sliding fit. After
honing, thoroughly clean the bushings
with brake parts cleaner.