Nourish - November 2017

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Are You


Game?


2016 SORRENBERG
GAMAY
It would be a crime to
talk about gamay and
not mention Sorrenberg.
Barry Morey has been a
pioneer of the variety in
Australia. This is serious
gamay with no carbonic
maceration. It is easy
to mistake for premium
pinot noir with dark berry
and spice flavours and
powdery soft tannins. $52

2015 MARCEL JOUBERT
BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES
CUVÉE À L’ANCIENNE
With old vines and organic/
biodynamic farming principles,
this is entry-level beaujolais-
villages at its finest and a great
example of just how delightful
carbonic maceration characters
can be. Beautiful raspberry jube
flavours, with a light body and
delicate freshness. Drink lightly
chilled on a summer’s eve. $32

2015 DOMINIQUE
PIRON FLEURIE
Dominique Piron’s
family has been making
beaujolais for 14
generations and it shows.
His range includes wines
from a number of crus,
elegantly demonstrating
the difference in styles
between sites. The Fleurie
is from 50-year-old vines
and is exceptionally good
value. Delicate floral
and fruit flavours are
underpinned by a tannin
structure that will allow
for short-term ageing,
not that it needs it. $43

2017 PUNT
ROAD GAMAY
This is only the second
release of this wine from
Punt Road in the Yarra
Valley and they are onto a
winner. Light-bodied and so
slurpably versatile, with juicy
fruit, spice and soft tannins.
An absolute bargain. $23

with amazing candy-store aromas
and low tannin. This is what gives
beaujolais nouveau its character.
As if carbonic maceration wasn’t
enough to get your head around, of
course Australians have come up with
a diminutive version. It is not at all
unusual in a room full of sommeliers
to hear ‘there’s a bit of cab mac in this’.
Just be glad it wasn’t shortened to
‘carb mac’ – that would certainly send
us down a cheesy-comfort-food path
of confusion.


Food and wine
Forget all those old rules about red
wine with red meat and white wine
with white meat, there is a gamay
to suit most dishes. The fruity, low
tannin style of beaujolais nouveau is
perfect lightly chilled with charcuterie,
lighter seafood, Asian dishes and even
those with a bit of chilli heat. Spicy
foods can make red wine taste bitter
but the bright aromas and lack of
tannin in nouveau wines work well.


Beaujolais-villages are barbeque
wines and are a match made in
heaven with a range of chargrilled
meats. They are also great for richer
fish dishes (think salmon and tuna),
versatile enough for tapas-style meals,
cold meats and salads.
The beaujolais crus can be matched
with many of the classic pinot noir
pairings like duck. The heavier crus
work well with roast meats, while the
more aromatic crus are fantastic with
vegetarian dishes like roast vegetable
salads. In France they are paired
with all the gorgeous traditional
French dishes like coq au vin and
Toulouse sausage.
It is a little trickier with Australian
gamay as it may be made in a fruity
style or more like a beaujolais
cru. Typically price can be a good
indication – higher priced offerings
are usually a bolder style with the
ability to age, while inexpensive
options will work with similar
foods as beaujolais-villages.

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