12
STEP
The final piece of the puzzle is the brakes!
Grmusa’s giant Wilwood discs were machined
and given a clean-up by the Rod Shop boys
before they went back on the car. You can see
why the caliper brackets had to be modified –
these are some serious stoppers!STEP
It’s time to
get dirty and
grease the
spindles, hubs
and bearings.
The bearings
will only fit one
way, and it’s
important to
remember to put
a rubber dust
seal on the back
of the hubs to
prevent, er, dustThe new hubs slide in and are held in place with a nut and lock pinseputckustHOW TO SET UP A BURNOUT CAR
BOB Telford (no relation to our own Editor Telfo, but
similarly bearded) is the guy to speak to at Castlemaine
Rod Shop when it comes to custom suspension tuning.
There are a thousand different ways to do it, but there’s
one simple key to setting up a burnout car: The outside
front wheel needs to be square with the pad during the
tip-in. Just like a drift car, the steering is often close to
the lock stops during this time, and the front wheels need
to be square with the ground in order to achieve the
maximum contact patch and therefore the best steering
and brake control.
For Pete's car, Bob recommended 1-1.5° of negative front
camber and 4-4.5° castor angle, so he'll get the most
steering correction from the front end. When it comes to
toe-in, it really depends on the car, but generally around
2mm is the go-to – you definitely don’t want toe-out like
Peter had with his rear mount rack and short tie-rod ends.
Most burnout cars use a live-axle rear end without much
adjustment other than perhaps a set of coil-overs – though
Pete uses airbags in his car. Generally you want the car
set softer in the rear than the front. A stiff front end will
help turn-in during the tip-in, though you don’t want to set
your rear too soft, as this will make the car twitchy when
trying to carve wider arcs and may even prolong tyre life.
It’s a fine balance!STEP