DESTINATION | THE HEADS
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BELOW It can be diffcult to spot from the ocean, but the passage through the Heads offers plenty of room to move. BOTTOM Views for eternity.
By land North Head is miles away from South
Head, even though the distance as the crow flies
is short, and its views and panoramas are no less
commanding. Yet here the feel is much more
desolate and isolated, as the area has only ever
been used for quarantine, church, defence and as
a nature reserve.
Pay a visit to the banksia and low bushes that
populate the area of the historic Quarantine
Station, once home to the unfortunate sufferers
of Spanish Influenza, Smallpox, Bubonic Plague
and Anthrax, and still in use up until as late
as 1984. Now clear of danger, it doubles up as
an immigration museum and monument to
European arrival to these shores.
Next stop is down to Manly, so named by
Governor Phillip, who on meeting the local
Guringai people said, “their confidence and
manly behaviour made me give the name of
Manly Cove to this place.”
There is lots for everyone to explore on the
Heads; old fortifications and gun emplacementsabound, built to keep out the old foe France or
the increasing threat of the USA in the 19th
Century; lighthouses and churches such as the
lovely and aptly named Star of the Sea and both
flora and fauna to be searched for.
There is also history to be uncovered
(particularly surrounding the early interaction
between the indigenous people and those
arriving from overseas); paths to walk; beaches to
swim from; architecture new and old to marvel
at; and of course the wonderful views and
sights from on high – along the coast, inland to
the bustling city, and out across the seemingly
endless ocean.
And if you are out and about exploring at
the right time of year, do not forget to look
out for humpback whales as they stream past
close to shore on their traditional routes from
Antarctica to Queensland for warmer climes to
calve and breed between May and August, before
returning on their southern migration from
August until November.