Denver Life Magazine – April 2019

(Jeff_L) #1

APRIL 2019 | denverlifemagazine.com 53


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Steakhouse No. 316 Steaks plus...



  • If the word “steakhouse” conjures
    unwelcome ideas of traditionalism, you
    should try the Bone Marrow Luge at the
    new Steakhouse No. 316 in Boulder. On a
    recent evening, the dish came out unex-
    pectedly, with a grinning explanation from
    our waiter. The bone luge, like the ice luge,
    is a means of imbibing liquor. Rather than
    a channel of ice, the booze runs through the
    cavity of a beef bone, picking up salt and
    marrow on its way. When the waiter tipped
    the bone to my lips and poured a shot of
    top-shelf whiskey down it, any notion of the
    place as stuffy evaporated on the spot.
    But Steakhouse No. 316 is still a steak-
    house, and a damn good one, even without
    the pomp. The Tableside Caesar ($18 per
    person) was made from scratch while I
    watched, and the result was easily the best
    salad I’ve ever had. The appetizers and
    sides were sumptuous: Creamy Lobster
    and Squash Risotto ($17), Winter Truffle
    Mac and Cheese ($30), East and West
    Coast Oysters ($15 for 3). But the real show


was the steaks. I tried two of the 10 cuts,
which include a bone-in fillet (10 oz., $56),
a whiskey dry-aged ribeye (8 oz., $70), an
American Kobe flat iron (10 oz., $42), and
offerings of bison and lamb. Loaded up
with “over-the-top” items like a 6-oz. Maine
lobster tail ($21), crab cake ($13), and sauc-
es like black truffle butter ($4), the meal left
me waddling happily to the sidewalk, the
warmth from the bone-luge shot still warm
in my belly. —Andrew Weaver


  • 1922 13th St., Boulder, steakhouse316.com/boulder


Broadway Market
Millennial smorgasbord


  • Broadway Market, in the old Tony’s space on the Golden Triangle-Capitol Hill cusp,
    is the 12th food hall to open in the Denver area, which says a lot about our region’s pre-
    ferred dining style. One might describe it as the antithesis of fine dining, except that,
    even in a casual setting, we want
    our food to be oh-so-fine.
    We gave it go on a Wednesday
    evening, after we were told that
    lunch was busy but dinner was “a
    bit more vibrant and rowdy.” Row-
    dy? Now there’s a rare compliment
    for a new dining establishment,
    even one with nine food stops,
    from pizza to empanadas to su-
    shi. But the convivial spirit of the
    place quickly emerged as we made
    our first stop—the beer wall—and
    giggled and chatted with other
    patrons over the high-tech system
    and selection of 24 self-pours.
    In hand was our tiny fob, dou-
    bling as our meal ticket. A new
    concept in Denver, the Broadway
    Market fob is linked at check-in
    to your credit card, allowing you
    to wave it at the beer wall sensor
    and use it at any of the nine dining
    stands. We shared, but, if you’re
    meeting eight friends, you can each
    get your own and thus be relieved
    of higher math and check wran-
    gling. You can still buy and tip in
    cash, if you choose, or add on a
    tip at the end that will be divided
    based on where the money went
    that night.
    My husband headed straight
    for Biju’s Little Curry Shop,
    where he opted for the Daily Special Curry, tender and perfectly cooked grilled steak
    sauced in the house X-Hot Vindaloo ($12.95). With jalapeños, red onion, and greens
    alongside white rice, the colorful dish pleased his palate. He also ordered the chili
    lime tater tots ($3.50), addictive fried morsels that are a must-have side or appetizer
    no matter your choice of mains.
    I scored on my entrée, the Lamb Doner Bowl from Mother Tongue ($11.50). A large
    mound of lovingly coddled and roasted Colorado lamb served on organic mixed greens
    was flavored with cucumber-dill yogurt, harissa aioli, roasted tomatoes, onion jam,
    cured vegetables, and tahini slaw. While I swooned and sipped my Ottoman Emperor
    cocktail ($10), the hubby got us a to-go French Rooster ($12) from Royal Rooster—fried
    thigh and house-made ham on a sandwich so good it almost didn’t make it home. The
    Sea Salt Chocolate Chip Cookie from Miette et Chocolate sealed the deal.
    On our way out, we noticed that every seat was filled. Too bad. The food is oh-so-fine,
    but the dining is casual, and Broadway Market doesn’t take reservations. —Susan Fornoff

  • 950 Broadway, broadwaymarketdenver.com


ONE-STOP EATING TOP, THE BEER WALL; ABOVE, A BOWL AT MOTHER TONGUE
Free download pdf