28 | BOATINGMAG.COM | MAY 2018NAUTICAL
NO -NOBOAT DOCTOR ///Q&APHOTOS: (FROM TOP) COURTESY WEST MARINE, KEVIN FALVEYQ:STRIPPED!
A careless diver cleaned the sterndrive with acid
when removing barnacles from my new-to-me 2004
26-foot Sea Ray. The paint layer is thin, and bare
metal shows in areas. Do you recommend painting it?
Which paint? Can it be a DIY job? The boat lives on a
lift above salt water. Thanks.
Miguel G.
Via emailA:
Yes, it is a DIY job. Sand/abrade the surface
using 180-grit paper or a maroon Scotch-Brite
pad until the metal is bright and there is no fl aking
fi nish. Clean with soap and water, then dry. Next, wipe
down with white vinegar, which is acetic acid. This
chemically etches the aluminum; you can certainly
use the purpose-made etcher from the paint-maker.
Etching must be performed immediately prior to
applying the primer, so plan your work accordingly.
Apply three to four coats of zinc phosphate primer
from a spray can. Then apply two to three coats of
topcoat from a spray can, which in your case will be
black, since Sea Ray boats are fitted with MerCruiser
sterndrives. You will likely need two cans of primer
and two cans of paint.
For a truly pro job — one that will provide the best
protection for your drive — apply a two-part epoxy
primer after etching instead of the zinc phosphate. I
have used Pettit Protect with excellent results. Brush
on two coats, following the directions on the can.SOFTWARE UPDATE
Q: Doc, I have been boating
for 33 years on an inland lake
(Cumberland). I recently
purchased a 2005 Rinker 320
with a Raymarine c70 display,
but it did not come with a CF
card. So I borrowed a CF card
from a friend before buying
one. I have enclosed pictures
of what my display looks like,
which is not correct when
compared to my buddy’s
c70 display (2007) with
the same card. I contacted
Raymarine, who said I would
need to update the software
of the display, which I did, as
evidenced by the software
details pictured. I am hoping
you might have run across
this in the past and that youcan point me in the right
direction. Thank you.
David Irvin
Lexington, KentuckyA: First, I want to thank
Randy Vance for the answer
to this question. He spoke
with Raymarine’s tech sup-
port on your behalf, David.
They said your unit is a 2002
unit. It may have been made
later than that, but that was
the technology for several
years. Plus, the processor
is small. So, if you put in a
newer chart card, it may not
be able to process it due to file
sizes. If you are boating on a
specific body of water, try to
buy a chart just for that body
of water.
Regardless, you do need
to familiarize yourself with
the manual, and you need to
be on the boat when you call
back tech support so they can
talk you through the menus.
I seldom wait more than an
hour for a callback and often
get through on the first ring.
They are good at their job.PAINTED PONY
Q: Mick, I own a nondescript
1960s 13-foot runabout pow-
ered by a Johnson outboard. I
would like to paint it to match
my 1970 Ford Mustang, with
which I tow my boat to car
shows. Can this be done?
John Stevens
Phoenix, ArizonaA: First, I’d like to note that
Johnson outboards of that era
bore the Sea Horse marque
and hope the irony isn’t lost
on you — or anybody else!
Pettit Paint (pettitpaint.com)
and others offer a range of
DIY paint products. You
can also see a step-by-step
guide to DIY hull painting at
boatingmag.com/never-wax-
your-boat-again.SHARP CORNERS
Most boaters who have spent time
aboard boats in open water will immedi-
ately recognize the problem illustrated in
the accompanying photo. Taken aboard a twin-
stateroom inboard cruiser, it shows
the very sharp corner of the
galley counter. Bumping into
this while simply passing
by would hurt. Falling
against it in any kind of
wave action while the
boat is cruising, or even
anchored, or due the
unexpected wake of a
passing boat is sure to
cause injury. Corners
aboard boats should be
rounded or padded for
safety. —Kevin Falvey