PHOTOGRAPHY: ROBERT HARDING; 4CORNERS IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY
; REX
T
he Tuscan Archipelago, midway between Forte dei
Marmi and Porto Cervo, is a yachting haven – apart
from the chain’s tiniest island, Gorgona, which
appears like Alcatraz Island complete with Pisan watchtowers
and crenellated prison walls. However, the island regime
is an enlightened one. When Italy was reunified in 1861 the
kingdom created an experimental agricultural penal colony,
where it was hoped that pine scents and azure seas would
soothe inmates into submission.
Italy’s toughest prisoners (the 79 inmates still stationed
here include drug traickers and armed robbers) learn organic
farming techniques plus the value of hard work with the
help of one of Italy’s leading wine producers, Marchesi de
Frescobaldi. “In 2012 we received an email from the prison,”
says spokesperson Luisa Calvo. “They asked if we could help
them manage a one-hectare vineyard.” The 30th-generation
president of the group,
Marquis Lamberto
Frescoba ldi, sailed
90 minutes from
Livorno and discovered
anisland,onlytwosquare
kilometres, carpeted 90 per cent by
forestandtheremaindersplashedwithVermentinoandAnsonica
vines.ThelatterisatoughSicilianvarietythathasacclimatisedto
Gorgona’ssearingsummers,whichstart20daysearlierthanonthe
mainland. “Marquis Frescobaldi knew he could help prisoners to
learn a new role to assist them on release,” adds Calvo.
Therateofreofendingisjust20percent,comparedwith80per
cent in Italy’s overcrowded mainland prisons. In return, Marchesi
deFrescobaldiproduces3,700bottlesofrich,flintywhite,with
aredalreadyinproduction.
Since2016guideddailyhikes,rangingfromthreetoeight
kilometres,havebeenavailableontheisland.Thetoursfollow
strictroutesandnophonesorcamerasareallowed,butit’sworth
ittoexperiencetheisland’sflora,whichincludesevergreenand
prehistoricforests,andpristinebeaches.Birdloverswillrelishthe
opportunitytospottherareCorsicanfinch,whichcanbe
foundononlyfourotherislandsbesidesGorgona.Divers,however,
willkicktheirfinsindespairasit’snotpossibletosnorkelordivein
its clear waters.
The island’s
ora includes
evergreen and
prehistoric
forests, and
pristine beaches
Gorgona
BEST FOR PRIVACY AND SECLUSION:
Location: A paradise prison straight out from Livorno
Guideddailyhikesare
availableonGorgona,
from 3km to 8km
The prison’s
vineyard grapes
create a rich
white for one of
Italy’s leading
wine producers
There are about
60 residents on
Gorgona in addition
to the prisoners
Best by boat: As just 47 staf manage the penitentiary,
prison breaks are a genuine concern. To gain access to the
waters your captain must seek written permission from the
Italian Ministry of Justice in advance. Pure pleasure-seekers
may sail further south to the neighbouring island of Capraia.
A penal colony itself from 1873 and 1986, it’s now a national
park with wild mouflon sheep and dolphins aplenty.
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