July 2018 | http://www.boatinternational.com
Voyage
PHOTOGRAPHY: 4CORNERS IMAGES; GETTY IMAGES; ALAMY; IGNACIO MARIA CO
CCIA/CONTRASTO/EYEVINE
L
ying midway between Ischia and Ponza this elongated island, whichis the remains of an
ancientvolcano,wasdiscoveredbytheRomans.Itbecameapopulardumpinggroundfor
Roman miscreants: Emperor Augustus banished his daughter Julia there oncharges of
adultery; later Emperor Tiberius banished Augustus’s granddaughterAgrippina the Elder after
shewasdeclaredapublicenemyofthestate;andtheever-charmingEmperor
Nero also ditched his first wife Octavia on the island so he could marry Poppaea.
At 1.5 square kilometres, it’s the second largest isle in the Pontine archipelago
and has a more relaxed vibe than its neighbour Ponza.
It is virtually car free with colourful villas and a
smattering of tourist hotels. “Ventotene remained
uninhabited for ages,” explains Tonino Cacace, the
entrepreneur behind the Capri Palace Hotel. “Even
many Italians don’t know about it.”
The island ’s slow development could be because
thereisnonaturalstandingwaterorbecause
Ve n t o t e n e r e p r i s e d i t s r o l e a s a
prison for subversives in the 20th
century, before the jail on Santo
Stefano was closed in 1965.
Nowadays the island has
earned a reputation from
captainsintheknowthanksto
itssuperbdivingspots,packed
with barracudas and gigantic groupers. In 2009 archaeologists
foundfivepreservedgalleysontheseabedwithintactcargos
ofwine,oliveoilandgarum(anancientRomanfishsauce).
The main square of Piazza Castello has an unhurried rhythm
that revolves around sipping
macchiato cofees and reading
La Repubblica.Theonlyefort
expended is to make one’s own
wineorcatchapileoffish.
“Ventotene
remained
uninhabited for
ages. Even many
Italians don’t
know about it”
Ve n to t e n e
BESTFORDIVESITESANDWRECKEXPLORING:
Location:25nm (and 500 years) from Ischia
Below: the crumbling
tower of the old prison
on the neighbouring
island of Santo Stefano
There is one
settlement on
Ventotene, above
its Roman port
Above: the beach
at Cala Nave bay,
just south of the
town and port
Best by boat: Smaller vessels can sneak into Ventotene’s
Roman harbour, Porto Romano. Superyachts will find shelter
of Punta Pascone on the island’s western side.
Superyacht
owners’ favourite
Italian stop-ofs
boatint.com/italian-
anchorages
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