the times Saturday June 11 2022
Travel 57
One of the bedroomsCouples, groups of friends and family
groups add up to a lively crowd spread
out through two dining rooms, the
garden and various snugs and nooks.
It’s a shame there’s no table service in
the bar or lounges and the most junior
members of staff could do with more
training, especially on the menu (the
hospitality staffing crisis is doing its
thing here too). And in the decent-sized
bedrooms full-length mirrors would have
been helpful (on order, apparently),
along with some suggestions of things to
do nearby. But the rooms are calm
spaces, done out in sage, grey and blue
neutrals with the odd splosh of colour.kitchen spreading itself too thin? Can’t
the chef make their mind up? — but
Coppa Club has had time to figure out
what works and the menu of nibbles,
fresh pasta, pizzas, salads, sharing plates
and grills is handled with polish. Prizes
go to the properly cheesy parmesan
croquettes and the sea trout a la plancha
with freekeh and watercress.
Another plus, in the main restaurant,
is the decor — blue-velvet upholstery
on mid-century chairs, booths and
banquettes, geometric lightshades and
frothy greenery hanging from generous
skylights. It’s early days but it seems the
locals have welcomed the new arrival.What’s the story?
Coppa Club is not a club but a group of
hotels and restaurants that set up shop
in Sonning, Berkshire, in 2015, aiming
to recreate a members’ club vibe but
without the membership. Confusing
name aside, that is what they’ve done
in locations in London, Bristol and the
home counties — often in waterside
spots with private-dining, igloo-style
pods. The 13-bedroom Georgian in
Haslemere is the tenth outpost.
What do we like?
Food is the real forte. Some places with
large menus invite scepticism — is the
The Times
hotel guide
The Georgian
Coppa Club
Haslemere,
Surrey
Food {{{{{
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Rooms {{{{{ The bar at the Georgian Coppa Club
Full marks for the excellent mattresses,
powerful showers and proper mugs.What’s nearby?
Haslemere is a sleepy town — arrive
after 4pm on a Saturday and you won’t
find much open — but there’s natural
history at the Haslemere Museum (free,
haslemeremuseum.co.uk), and follow
Well Lane off the main drag for a lovely
loop walk through fields and woods
(nationaltrust.org.uk/swan-barn-farm).
Hop in the car to reach walks in the
Surrey Hills and South Downs — or
a swim at Frensham Great Pond.
Liz EdwardsLiz Edwards was a guest
of the Coppa Club, which
has B&B doubles from
£90; mains from £14
(coppaclub.co.uk)