The Times Magazine - UK (2022-06-11)

56 The Times Magazine

1 COSTA DA PRATA

The Algarve is not off limits for the

Portuguese (apart from the central section,

that is, Portimao to Faro). It’s just that they

know where there are emptier – and, dare

we say it, less spoilt – beaches. Take the Costa

da Prata, or “Silver Coast”, which runs for

150 miles from north of the capital to Porto,

is dotted with surfer beaches and seaside

getaways and is also where you’ll find a lot

of Lisboans in high summer. The vibe is

laid-back, casual and welcoming. Highlights

include Obidos, Portugal’s prettiest walled

town, and its sheltered lagoon, which has Foz

do Arelho – a relaxed village with stunning

clifftop boardwalks – on the other side of it.

Further north, surfy Nazare is famous for

its record-breaking, ten-storey high waves.

If it’s peace and quiet you’re after, the most

uncrowded beaches are Pedrogao and Osso

da Baleia, south of Figueira da Foz. For wild,

untamed beauty? Try those around Tocha.

Stay Hippy-chic Areias do Seixo hotel, which

lies between the pine groves and sand dunes

near Santa Cruz. As stylish as it is eco-

conscious (areiasdoseixo.com).

Eat On the waterfront in Azenhas do Mar, at

a restaurant of the same name, for top-notch

fish and seafood. In front of its terrace is a

seawater swimming pool, which fills up at high

tide as the waves break over the outer wall.

2 AVEIRO

Compact and colourful, Aveiro is a quirky

seaside resort an hour south of Porto. Situated

on a lagoon five miles inland from the Costa

da Prata, the city has a network of canals and

bridges that mean it’s dubbed “the Venice of

Portugal”. That’s a bit of a stretch, but they do

have gondolas, or moliceiros, which used to

gather seaweed and now ferry around tourists.

There’s a jewel of an old town, with ornate art

nouveau and beautiful azulejo-tiled buildings

to ogle, and a thriving street-art scene. The

beach is 30 minutes away at Costa Nova,

whose candy-striped houses are as summery

as a stick of rock.

Stay Desertas Beach and Sport, at Costa Nova

• four cool wooden pods amid the pines on a
  sand spit. A word of advice: when you get to
  the Atlantic side of the spit from Desertas,
  turn left not right, or you’ll end up on the
  nudist beach (desertas-beachandsport.com).
  Eat O Bairro, opposite Aveiro’s fish market.
  Seafood is a speciality (obvs) but so is risotto


• the catch of the day is served on sundried
  tomato and seaweed risotto, and sliced steak
  on a mushroom one.

3 SAGRES

Set on top of sheer red sandstone cliffs at

Europe’s most southwesterly point, Sagres

has an elemental beauty and easygoing

atmosphere that keep visitors returning time

and again. The town sits where the Algarve

The waterfront at Azenhas do Mar,

with seawater swimming pool

WHERE THE

PORTUGUESE

GO ON HOLIDAY

ALAMY, ASH JAMES, JULIANA SOUZA