The Times Magazine 611 SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ, BASQUE COUNTRY
Sandwiched between two blockbuster Basque
destinations – Biarritz in France and San
Sebastian in Spain – Saint-Jean-de-Luz has
flown under the radar relative to its A-list
neighbours. A small fishing town on the
Bay of Biscay, about 20 minutes’ drive from
Biarritz, it has a postcard-perfect crescent of
colourful wooden-framed houses along the
seafront, as well as great sandy beaches.
Paddle-boarders, cyclists, hikers and surfers
love it, but fans also come for the Basque
cuisine and the thalassotherapy from the
mineral-rich seawater pools (luz is not Spanish
for “light” but Basque for “swamp”). For
magnificent views over the Atlantic and the
Pyrenees, take the 1900s cog train up to the
summit of La Rhune.
Stay Grand Hotel Thalasso and Spa is
an impressive pink villa on the seaside
(luzgrandhotel.fr).
Eat Or rather drink at L’Atelier Egiategia, a
winery in a hut overlooking Ciboure beach.
Wine is aged in barrels under the sea.2 BONIFACIO, CORSICA
This cliff-edge town in southern Corsica
attracts a smart Parisian crowd dressed in
chic resort gear. Its colourful buildings sitting
on the bluff’s edge are best viewed from a
yacht in the Tyrrhenian Sea, the mode of
transport for the Bonifacio set. In the old
town, streets are lined with brasseries and
boutiques. The marine cemetery Campu
Santu is a peaceful spot with panoramic
views of the Med and Sardinia in the distance.
It’s something of an initiation ceremony
to descend (and then ascend) the King of
Aragon’s Stairway to the sea – 187 ancient
steps carved into the cliff face.
Stay If not on a yacht, then at the Hotel Cala
di Greco, with its infinity pool overlooking the
harbour (hotel-caladigreco.com).
Eat Wild boar stew is the local delicacy and it
is best sampled at Kissing Pigs, an authentic
Corsican restaurant in the marina.3 LES CÉVENNES, OCCITANIE
East of Avignon lies one of the most famous
destinations in France: the Provençal hills.
Just west of the city you’ll find a lesser-known
beauty: the magnificent peaks and valleys of
Les Cévennes and the surrounding Ardèche
and Tarn gorges. This is where French
families escape to in the summer. Outdoor
pursuits are the main event. Kayaking alongthe still (and very safe) waters at the depths
of the canyons is one of the most popular
activities. Roll through the hills in a rental car
between picturesque hamlets, farmhouses,
vineyards and rustic restaurants.
Stay La Maison Papillons, Montclus. A small,
chic guesthouse on the eastern border of
Les Cévennes, a 20-minute drive from the
Ardèche gorge (lamaisonpapillons.fr).
Eat Carabasse in Beaulieu and Le Mouton
Noir in Issirac.4 CAP FERRET, AQUITAINE
Not Cap Ferrat, the glitzy celeb hangout on
the Côte d’Azur, but a narrow peninsula on the
Aquitaine coast, covered in pine trees and sand
dunes and frequented in the summer months
by beach-lovers from Bordeaux. It’s sort of
like Cape Cod is to Bostonites: people come
here to surf, swim, fish and drink wine at the
many bayside oyster shacks. Across the Bay of
Arcachon you can see the Dune du Pilat, the
tallest sand dune in Europe. Most people stay
in one of the weathered wooden houses or old
fishermen’s cottages, but there are hotels too.
Stay La Maison du Bassin, an old timber
house with stylish furniture and a nautical
feel (lamaisondubassincapferret.com).
Eat Chai Bertrand, a no-frills beach shack with
oysters, prawns, whelks and white wine.5 ÎLE-DE-BRÉHAT, BRITTANY
A mile off the coast of Brittany, Bréhat
is not really an island but an archipelago
of 86 islets and reefs that brings to mind the
Seychelles rather than the English Channel.
It has a fairytale landscape of pink granite
rock and verdant hills and is a destination
for well-heeled French visitors looking to cut
themselves off from the stresses of modern
life. Existence here is slow and peaceful, and
days are steered by the tides. This is the sort
of place where you will go for a walk through
fields of wildflowers and come across ancient
water mills and tiny chapels.
Stay Accommodation is basic, which is all
part of the experience, but you can also stay
on the mainland and take the seven-minute
ferry across from L’Arcouest. In both cases,
renting a gîte is the best option.
Eat Go for moules-frites at La Cabounette.WHERE THE
FRENCH
GO ON HOLIDAY
Saint-Jean-de-LuzHouses press up to the cliff
edge at Bonifacio on CorsicaTRAVEL
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