62 The Times Magazine1 MALLORCA
Whisper it: it’s not just Brits who go on
holiday to Mallorca. It’s a favourite among
Spanish second-homers and families who
love heading to Deia, a pretty hillside village
with the famous bayside restaurant from The
Night Manager – Ca’s Patro March. It’s still
cool even though everyone knows about it
(you need to book a month in advance during
August). Also popular among those in the know
is Es Trenc, with its blue waters and white
sands and excellent restaurant of the same
name. This is the spot to try seafood paella on
the beachfront. Others stay in Puerto Pollensa,
a seaside town with a calmer-than-Palma vibe.
Stay at Illa D’Or hotel on the bay (hotelillador.
com) and head for dinner at Na Ruixa, for
langoustines and classic Balearic charm.
Stay Hotel Bendinat, a boutique hotel on the
outskirts of Palma. It has luscious gardens and
pine-tree shaded terraces looking out to sea
(hotelbendinat.es).
Eat Son Tomas in Banyalbufar, a family-run
restaurant in the mountains. Ask for a table
on the terrace and try the local wine.2 FORMENTERA
It may be only 30 minutes south of Ibiza by
ferry, but the island of Formentera bears little
resemblance to its bigger, brasher neighbour.
It’s largely undeveloped, with more than
70 per cent of the land protected. There are
barely any cars and the best way to get around
is by hiring a bike and exploring the 32 “green
routes” that zigzag across the island. The bay
of Es Calo de Sant Agusti is a traditional,
unspoilt harbour with wooden boathouses
and a great restaurant called Es Calo.
Stay Tiny and stylish, Casa Pacha on the
beachfront at Es Arenals has raw plastered
walls, wooden furniture and natural linens
(casapacha.com).
Eat Es Codol Foradat is a little further west
up the coast from Es Arenals. Try the fried
shrimps and Galician razor clams.3 COSTA BRAVA
When Barcelona boils over, Catalonians
head to the Costa Brava for its spectacular
coastlines and safe, sandy beaches. The
gorgeous town of Cadaques is famous for
its whitewashed houses, museums and art
galleries – Salvador Dalí had a house here- but it’s the rocky stretch of coast that runs
from the fishing town of Palamos to Girona
that is Catalonia’s best-kept secret. The towns
of Palamos and Begur have become culinary
destinations, and the bay of Sa Tuna is so
picture perfect the locals are reluctant to
share it. During the summer it’s best to ditch
the car – the winding roads are often blocked
with traffic – and stay in a coastal town with
everything you need in walking distance.
Stay Hotel Villa Gala in Cadaques. It’s
right by Port Alguer (hotelvillagala.com).
Eat The fish at Miramar in Llanca, an award-
winning restaurant run by the Michelin-
starred chef Paco Pérez.4 SAN SEBASTIAN
No secrets here: people come to San Sebastian
to eat, and usually just for a long weekend.
The most popular food is pintxo – bite-size
snacks typically served on bread or cocktail
sticks, costing ¤2-¤5 each. A 30-minute drive
west along the coast is the lesser-known town
of Getaria, where you’ll find the Michelin-
starred Elkano. The grilled fish is so good,
the place was ranked No 16 in the World’s
50 Best Restaurants last year.
Stay The grand, classical Hotel de Londres y
de Inglaterra in Concha bay (hlondres.com).
Eat Just out of town, try the tasting menu at
Zuberoa, set in a 600-year-old farmhouse.5 CADIZ PROVINCE
This region on the southwest Atlantic
coast is great for culture, Moorish history,
flamenco music and, of course, food. The
town of Sanlucar de Barrameda is Spain’s
city of gastronomy for 2022. Locals head
to a restaurant called Casa Bigote for the
best prawns in the area. Aponiente, in
neighbouring Puerto de Santa María, is the
best restaurant you’ve never heard of. It has
three Michelin stars for its innovative seafood
dishes using plankton, cod tongue and squid
liver. Further south along the coast are the
spectacular surfing beaches of Novo Sancti
Petri, or for seclusion head for Calos de Seca.
Stay Hospederia Duques de Medina Sidonia, a
15th-century palace in Sanlucar de Barrameda
(ruralduquesmedinasidonia.com).
Eat The tuna restaurant El Campero, in
Barbate, is unmissable. n
With thanks to Amanda Dardanis, John Carlin,
Sophie Debaere, Amanda Linfoot, Amber
Guinness and Matthew Bell
The hillside village of Deia on MallorcaSa Tuna bay near Begur on the Costa BravaTRAVEL
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