Professional BoatBuilder - February-March 2018

(Amelia) #1
36 PROFESSIONAL BOATBUILDER

DETAILS: From the Shows


  1.  is is a handsome and well-thought-out toerail and
    cleat arrangement. Although the cleats are a bit small, there
    are two, and they are well protected by the toerail, so snag-
    ging sails or running lines is unlikely.  e stainless steel
    chock is generously sized, with ample room for cha ng gear
    and nicely so ened edges that help prevent abrasion.
    Fender hangers come in all shapes and sizes, and these well-
    padded specimens are attractive and functional. My only
    reservation is that they not be le too long in the same loca-
    tion, because, over time, soaking-wet fender hangers can
    cause blushed varnish and bubbled paint underneath.

  2.  is beautiful stainless steel cleat casting has inte-
    grated, carefully radiused chock arms. Many hours of
    grinding and polishing were required to produce this shine,
    but what’s to stop the spliced eye in the black dockline from
    jumping o the cleat’s horns if the boat thrashes around at
    the dock?

  3. Every edge of this “no-snag” cleat is generously radi-
    used. Swing-away gates at the forward and a ends of the
    cleat open to accommodate a line or spliced loop around
    the cleat’s horns. Although designed to prevent sails, sheets,
    and spinnaker guys from snagging, this cleat could be also
    surface-mounted amidships or on the bow of a walk-
    around sport shing boat, where snagged  shing lines can
    ruin your day.

  4. Cleats are also mounted below the decks or covering
    boards, with attached lines emerging through hawsehole
    castings, where sharp corners trigger rapid chafe in rough
    conditions. Big radiuses, it turns out, can be as troublesome
    as sharp edges.  is hawsepipe casting has gently radiused
    edges that will be easy on the line. Corey Butlin at RW
    Ropes in New Bedford, Massachusetts, advised, “A radius
    about half the line’s outside diameter will be kind to them.
    Too sharp a radius, or too big a radius, will cause too
    much chafe. Bigger is better, but only to a point.” Speaking
    of chafe, how about installing one or more chafe bars where
    the lines bear on the turn of the deck above the hull-to-deck
    joint? A dockline sawing away on the
    gelcoat will eventually wear o the sur-
    face’s gloss.

  5.  is layout le me a bit ba ed.
    Why not install two cleats, and why
    position the chocks to torture the dock-
    line this much? I say “dockline” instead
    of “lines” because this boat is apparently
    designed to dock only starboard-side to.
    Is the recessed navigation light a cool
    design feature or just an attempt to stop
    the dockline from tearing it o as the
    boat moves up and down on its dock-
    lines with the tide or boat wake?


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