The Sunday Times Magazine - UK (2022-06-12)

W

atching Skye Gyngell walk into the

kitchens at Heckfield Place bearing

armfuls of fresh peas and beans from

the garden, it’s easy to see where she

gets her inspiration. This most natural

of cooks — she still doesn’t think of

herself as a chef, despite 40 years spent

in professional kitchens — is never

happier than when conjuring up meals

out of the first flush of summer produce.

“Everyone thinks that spring is a time of

bounty but it’s not until June that we get our first peas,

broad beans and strawberries,” she says.

Of course not all of us are lucky enough to have access

to the five acres of biodynamic market garden at this

former Georgian family home, now luxury hotel, nor the

dairy herd and beehives that keep it in butter, cream and

honey, but we can still embrace the simplicity that good

ingredients offer. “We’re not the most technical chefs

here. It’s about putting your heart into what you’re

doing and enjoying yourself. When you have beautiful

produce, you can be a bit lazy. You have to do very little

to it as there’s no need to manipulate flavours.”

Skye Gyngell is the culinary director at Heckfield

Place, Hampshire; heckfieldplace.com

Make the most of summer’s fresh

produce while you can with these

simple ideas that put flavour first

HERE

COMES

THE SUN

SKYE

GYNGELL

Chickpea

pancakes with

grilled courgettes

These are based on socca, a

chickpea flatbread popular in

Nice in the south of France,

and very similar to dosas. As

they are made with chickpea

flour, they are gluten-free.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

• 225g chickpea flour


• 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil,
  plus extra for frying


• A few sprigs of rosemary,
  leaves only (optional)


• 225ml sparkling water


• 4-5 medium courgettes


• ½ tsp dried chilli flakes


• Juice and zest of
  ½ unwaxed lemon


• 3 sprigs of mint, leaves
  only, chopped


• 12 basil leaves, torn


• 3 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley,
  leaves only, chopped

For the herbed crème fraîche

• 150ml crème fraîche


• 1 tsp each chopped basil,
  mint and flat-leaf parsley

01 Put the chickpea flour into

a bowl with 1 teaspoon of salt

and a little pepper. Make a well

in the centre and pour in the

olive oil and add the rosemary,

if using. Whisk in the water

and mix to a smooth batter.

Set aside to rest for 20 min

while you grill the courgettes.

02 Slice the courgettes into

2.5cm discs. Brush with oil and

place on a hot grill. Cook until

golden brown and tender,

turning frequently. This should

take 8-10 min. Once cooked,

remove and season with salt,

the chilli flakes, lemon juice

and zest and the chopped or

torn herbs.

03 Put the crème fraîche

into a bowl, add the herbs and

stir well to combine. Season

with a pinch of salt if you

think it necessary.

04 For the pancakes, place

a non-stick frying pan over a

medium to high heat, add

a little olive oil and, when

the pan is just smoking, add

a ladle of batter. Cook until

golden brown, then turn and

cook the underside. Repeat.

05 To serve, fold the pancakes

in half, arrange the courgettes

on top and spoon the crème

fraîche over. MING TANG-EVANS FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES MAGAZINE, GETTY IMAGES

46 • The Sunday Times Magazine