DRINK●Will Lyons
2020 Viña
Zorzal
Garnacha
Spain (13.5%)
The Wine
Society, £7.95
Midsummer is
a time for light,
fruity, medium-
bodied red
wines and this
is a fantastic
beaujolais
lookalike from
Spain. Packed
full of red fruit it
is just the ticket
for sipping
outdoors. Chill
it down and
enjoy its red
berry, easy-
going charm.Left cold by chardonnay? These
alternatives should hit the spot
T
here is no lack of chardonnay in the world. Its
ubiquity is predominantly down to the fact it
can be cultivated easily and a little sun at the
end of the growing season is enough to produce
a palatable wine. In the villages of Burgundy —
particularly Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-
Montrachet, Corton and Saint Aubin — it can
take on greatness, with intensity, finesse and
lingering flavour. But chardonnay can often be
a little... well, vanilla. Not disappointing but
not setting the heather alight either. I can
sympathise with members of the ABC (anything but
chardonnay) club. With a host of grape varieties and
styles out there, it’s a great time to expand your palate.
Top of my list would be viognier, which has the same
full-bodied weight as chardonnay but with more floral,
perfumed aromas. It can be expensive from Condrieu in
the northern Rhône, but look elsewhere and you’ll findcracking examples, such as the peachy Yalumba Organic
Viognier (Waitrose, reduced to £7.49). Coming a close
second is chenin blanc; this grape, like chardonnay, can
elicit a range of styles from sweet to sparkling. In South
Africa the best examples can combine uplifting acidity
with lovely notes of tropical fruit and a purity of texture
not unlike chablis. Keep an eye out for producers such
as Adi Badenhorst, Eben Sadie and Mullineux.
Italy would be my third port of call. It grows more
grape varieties than perhaps any other country, but its
white wines are often reasonably priced and brimming
with character. Take soave, produced in the northeastern
Veneto region, which can combine medium-bodied
weight with a nutty, herbaceous flavour, sometimes
with hints of camomile. Majestic’s whistle-clean 2021
Domini Veneti Soave Classico (£10.99) is a fine starting
point, but there are so many others. Try some of the
suggestions below and do let me know your favourite n- 2021 Orvieto Classico Italy (12.5%) Co-op, £5.75
Orvieto doesn’t have the best of reputations, but this
is well worth a try. Whistle-clean with some pear
notes, it finishes crisp and dry and is good value. - 2021 Ascheri Gavi di Gavi DOCG Italy (13.5%)
Tesco, £13 A stylish gavi from Piedmont. Made only
using cortese, it combines pithy fruit with a savoury,
herbaceous character and a long, saline finish. - 2021 Les Grands Bouillons Picpoul de Pinet
France (12.5%) Cambridge Wine Merchants, £10.99
Picpoul is having a moment and this elegant example
is replete with lovely lemon and citrus character.
4. 2020 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Viognier France (13%)
Sainsbury’s, £10 Viognier is like a fruitier chardonnay
and this one, by a top-notch grower, has the
trademark floral, citrus and tropical fruit notes.
5. 2021 Raats Original Unwooded Chenin Blanc
South Africa (13.5%) Handford Wines, £14.99 Chenin
is like chardonnay with a kick. This one has a dry,
mineral tension and no oak, so is very like a chablis.
6. 2020 Cantina Cellaro Luma Grillo Sicily (13%)
Valvona & Crolla, £13.99 A lovely pale yellow
alternative to chardonnay with springlike,
super-fresh citrus notes.
123 456
Bargain
of the
week
JASON ALDEN
The Sunday Times Magazine • 54