Lapidary_Journal_Jewelry_Artist_-_February_2016_

(やまだぃちぅ) #1

Photo 14 Reverse the stake in the


holder to position the narrowest


groove facing outward. The fi nal and


thinnest groove requires the use of a


very narrow fl at cross peen hammer


with a rounded face (HMR-3). If there


are sharp edges on your hammer, you


must reshape it.


Use the thinner end of the cross peen

to hammer the middle of the bangle


down to the bottom of the groove. As


usual, use overlapping hammer blows.


Planish the bangle so the concave


shape is even all around.


Photo 15 The edges of the concave ban-


gle may fl are slightly outward at this


point, so to make them stand upright


and parallel it may be necessary to


compress the whole bangle. Tapping


the side of the bangle with a nylon


hammer may make the bangle wavy. If


this is desired, just leave it. If you want


the sides to be even, you’ll need to use


a guide to keep the thickness even.


Roll a ¼ inch square brass rod out to


4.2 mm as a guide and compress the


bangle down to the brass guide with a


nylon or rawhide mallet.


TIP:Another method is to use a


hydraulic press and two brass rods on


either side of the bangle. This will keep


the plates parallel and make the bangle


only compress as much as the rod


thickness.


Photo 16 The edges of the concave


shape can be thickened and textured


in one step on a stake (M-117) that


fi ts the inside curve of the bracelet.


Hammering both sides with a thin cross


peen makes for a strong visual element


to the edges. The edges are hammered


lightly to 6mm or so, and then a strong


blow can add a ribbon-like eff ect.


After the hammering is complete, use a


14 15


16 17


18


⅛"x1" felt wheel with bobbing to polish
the groove.
Photo 17 When stacked, the bangles
make a strong statement. They can also
be worn separately for a more casual
look. By transforming fl at sheet into a
dimensional design that doesn’t weigh
much, you’ll get a classic look for time
well spent.

WILLIAM FRETZ from Bucksport, Maine, began to
develop his line of jeweler’s tools in 2001, including
miniature stakes and a line of new jeweler’s and
silversmithing hammers. He is a graduate of The
School for American Craftsman, Rochester Institute
of Technology. More of his work can be seen at
http://www.fretzdesign.com; for upcoming workshops,
visit http://www.fretzdesign.com/workshops.

January/February 2016^39

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