n.05_September_October.2009.Englisch._

(Ben Green) #1

  • GLOBALBUSINESSLUXURY


ALL THAT GLITTERS


DerLuxuskenntkeineGrenzen- selbstwenndieZeitenhartergewordensind.DieAnbieterder
exklusivstenundteuerstenMarkensehenjedenfallskeinenGrund,anderZukunftzuzweifeln.
VICKISUSSENS-MESSERERhaterfahren,wasdieSuperreichenglücklichmacht. iMi!!i

all(hatcUtters(isnotCold) esislnichtalle'>Gold,was
[,~:löa:1,lJht;,zIZnOI'g;,old] glllnrt
aviatlonr,elvi'cl[>n) Fliegen.Fliegerei
bttlioNire[,bilj;,'ne;,1 Milliilfd3r(fii)

luxuryhistory:
aMareJaeob!l's
Christmasparty:
oneofVlctorla
Beckham's 100
Hermesbaes;
JackieOnaasl
wltha Gueeibai;
a1.
Cartierwateh

In anothcr sign ofpure decadence, business was
boomingforfirmslikeJetAviarion,whichworkswith
srardesignerssuchasPhilippeStarckroturnAirbuses
iotoluxury"flyingviUas". RequC5tsfrom clienrs-
mainlySaudiprineesandRussianoligarchs- included
cIl'CtronicgadicIscovercdinjewe1s,lilllhks.forhorses
andagaragefora Lamborghini.

Inearly2008,expertswerecallingthe1uxu-
ryindm.tryrhe"mostrobustofanybusinessseetor"-
despiregrowingfearsahout 3 financialcrisis.Butb)'the
endofrheyear,afterthecrisishadcutthenumberof
billionairesby 30 percent,theeuphoriaended.Asa
signofthetimes,louis·VuirrondesignetMareJacobs,
famous for his extravagant Christmas parties, ean-
ccliedtheOllefor2008."Lastyear,hispartywasheld
in Rockefeller P1aza, where, [in] golden showers of
.hli.Iu:..youngmen;llld\Vomenstood113kedand.d..u..s..tcl
inglitter.A )'carlarer,thegoldseemsvulgar,"comment-
edtrendfor«3!itersChrisSandersanandManinRay-
mondinthemagazine[l/xlIr)'Briefin~.
Luxuryhadcnmea langwavfromthedays wheo
Jeannelanvindresseda glamorousMarleneDietrich,or
BtigittcBaedotposedseductivdyonherRivaboat.The
vu1garitygrewpardyinresponsetothezeitgeistof.1:4::.
~.Smfirmsintheluxuryindumyhelpcdcreatethe
~."Theyconsrandyraisedthci30le,offeringmore
andmoreexeess,"saysBritishdesignguruStcphenBay-
ley,cal1ingit:"Machiavelliaoismaimedat consumers".
Withthepublicno\Vlw.s..ti.I..e.rosignsofgreed,firms
selIiogtheworld'sfinestproductsarerethinkingtheir
strategies.Thisisnothingnew.Eversineetheluxuryin-
dustrybeganwiththebinhofFrenchmaisQllssuchas~

Analyst(in)
Gerllt,Spielerei
Gier
eilK!lSacheablehnend
gegenOberstehen
(der)Machiavellismus
bloß
denEinsatzerhöhen
verfiIhrerlsch
hier:Unmengen
Stall
Beilage
Arnazonasgeb,et

blinglbll!jl]ifml.US Klunker.aulflilligerSchmuck
briefin,['bri,rlll] Inf(n1l<Jlionlen)
comeaIongwar.hawe~ esweitgebrachthaben
l,kAm;,,lno'WCI] -,;,__c;]"",,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,",,,o;;=
conciergeclubr'konsi~;l3klAb] exklusiverClubmit24-Slun·
den--ServicefOrMJ!glieder
Betriebsleiterlin)
jmdn.best3uben
""'"""Siedepunkt

COO(chiefopel'atlngofficerl[,si:;lo':ou]
dustsb.[dASl]
~e$$[lk'se~l
leverpitchl'fi:v~rull

,.,r-,woyearsaga,Timercportedinitswinteredi-
tionofStyle&Desigllthatthedemandfor
exorbirantlyexoticluxuryhadreached"fever
ciIffi...ForbesbossSteveFarbesroldthemag-
azinethat 2007 wastherichestyeareverin
hllmanhisrory,withthenllmbcrofbilljonairesgrow-
ingby 19 percent.Asthegoudlifespread,t,hesuper-
richiookcdforevermoreextravagantluxuriestosep-
aratethcmfromthemerelyrich.Onesignwasthe
growthof"Iuxuryconciereeclubs",whosejobit is,
simply,tosatisfymembers'eveeywish.AsEclward
RosenthaI,.CQQoEtheglobalclubQuintessenrially
saidinaTimemagazine1uxurysupplementin2007:
"Wedoanythingandeverythingforourclienrs,as
longasit'snotillegal."
Forexamp1e,a groupofhedge-fllndmanagersonee
askcdtobedroppedintheAmazonjung1cfoefourdays
withnorhingbotknives,saying[heydidnotmindrhe
riskofseriousinjuryordeath."Ihadtoreadthee-mai
rhreetimestomakesureI gorit right,"saidRosemhaI.
OnememberinlvliamirangtheclubtOsay shenccded
a pairofshoesfroma shopinlosAngeIesfota party
thatnight.TheywerefIowntOherina privatejet.And
a membcrinLondonneededa last-minutegift- and
askedthcclubtofinda Picasso.

Machlavetnanisml,m!l:ki"'vdi~Il,Iz,,m]
merely!'m,~Ji]
raisetheaame[,rCIZ1)01'gcIml
5educllvely[s1'dAkllvli]
showetll'[aoozj
stableI'SIClb>l]
supp~1's...plUD.:Jal]
theAmazon[öl'l'I:m;n;>n!


foreasterl'f~:klJ:~uJ
pdpt['yzd3I1]
Vm[yri:d]
hostile:be-to5th.l'hnsta"l]


18 BusJnessSpodighl 5/

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