FASHION JUXTAPOZ.COM (^) | 37
He’s part of a great generation of designers like Bill Blass
and Halston, who were known for their clean design. Oscar
could do that too, although with the great florals and beautiful
embroidery, you don’t automatically think of minimalism. But
the thing that I think people really associate with Oscar is that
particular silhouette, that particular bodice to the waist—there’s
a lot of under construction in that, and either the flaring or
gathered skirt away from the waist, often with a small train. He
loved to do short in front and longer in the back, which I think
he got directly from Flamenco dancers. There is that particular
Oscar silhouette, which I think of as his, often copied and
imitated, but that I would call his signature.
With his love for details, he literally covered the gamut,
from classic form to embellishment. Can you comment on
how painting influenced his fantasy designs?
He was greatly inspired by artists and painters, most of
them Spanish, in particular Francisco de Zurbaran from
the Spanish Renaissance. That can be seen, for example,
in the unusual colors that appear and the way the fabric
drapes. John Singer Sargent’s El Jaleo, with its Spanish
Gypsy dancer performing, accompanied by musicians, was
a particular inspiration, as seen in his love of boleros and
ruffles. In fact, in the Spanish section of the exhibit, we
deconstruct that painting; it was that much of an influence.
Fashion photography really bloomed during his era. Did he
have a favorite photographer?
He was always in the present in everything he did, but
a favorite photo was by Steven Meisel. He also enjoyed
Helmut Newton and Annie Leibovitz, who took the first cover
photo of a First Lady when Hillary Clinton wore one of his
dresses for Vogue.
How have you organized the exhibition?
Appropriately, the opening gallery shows his first work
designing for Elizabeth Arden and Jane Derby, and then
the first fashions conceived on his own. We’re lucky to
have three of the dresses that were on the runway in 1973
at Versailles, where a fashion show pitted five French
designers against five Americans who, incidentally, won.
A brief night-and-day tableaux follows, featuring the
above (from left)
Sarah Jessica Parker
Evening dress, 2014
Duchesse satin and velvet
with “Oscar de la Renta” signature
Private Collection
Photo by Kevin Mazur
Getty Images
Nicki Minaj
Evening dress, Spring 2012
Emerald-green silk taffeta,
black Battenburg lace
Photo by Jason Merritt
Getty Images
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