PHOTOGRAPHY:OPENINGSPREADGETTYIMAGES;THISSPREADGETTYIMAGES;MICHAELATRIMBLE
January2018|www.boatinternational.com
balanceonthenarrowbowofthefisherman’s
boat, clenching in my hands a net heavy with
seawater.Withabendoftheknees,aspinofthe
hipsandaflickofthewrists,thenetfliesinto
the air, unfurling a halo of mesh that quickly
sinks into the water. Although it is nowhere
near the perfect form that the fisherman had
demonstrated only moments before – his throw
spiralling wide, hands moving deftly to cast
andretrievethenetinseconds–Iamrelieved
myattempthasyieldedonefish.Iletitwriggle
to freedom, disappearing into the quiet
backwaters of Hoi An.
Thereisastillnesshere,alullintheenergy
that pervades the vibrant ancient city of Hoi An
itself, which is full of intoxicating smells, bright
lanterns and a mash of architectural styles.
AlthoughcolourfulVietnamesefishingboats
of all shapes and sizes bob against the palm
forest that fringes the waterways, we don’t see
aboatyou’ddescribeasayacht.
Vietnam has warmed to tourism, shrugging
offthespectreofadecades-longwartositatop
the adventurous traveller’s must-visit list. It’s
also piqued the curiosity of the intrepid yachting
set, though that intrigue has not been mutual.
Vietnamese authorities have regarded
privateyachtsasanoddity,privytothesame
rules as a foreign commercial vessel. But there
is a sense that change is under way. Vietnam
nowhasitsfirstmarinaandtherehasbeenan
increase in specialised yacht agents who are
abletohelpnavigatethemurky,ever-changing
regulations and legally circumvent some of the
burdensome rules.
“Pleasure boating is still an unfamiliar
activity for the Vietnamese authorities and isn’t