Practical Boat Owner — January 2018

(Tina Meador) #1

16
When the epoxy started to cure, a
sharp knife was used to trim the cloth
edge just under the masking tape which
was removed at the same time.


9
The cloth was then trimmed to the
marked line just above the tape.

13
This shows the back section
completed and note that the glass
cloth has to be thoroughly wetted out to
ensure uniform penetration of the resin.


6
A 300g per sq m biaxial glass cloth
1270mm wide was used to be laid all
in one piece. Initially the sheet was cut to
length for positioning allowing 50mm each
at each end for shrinkage when wetted out.


17
When the epoxy
had fully cured the
interior was then given
two coats of deck paint
to complete the job. The
result of the work was a
noticeably stiffer floor
which has provided a
much harder wearing
and more satisfactory
surface

10
It would be easiest with a sheet this
size to do it in fore and aft sections.
With the aft securely held with tape the
front part of the cloth was rolled back.

11
Using a roller the front section was
then primed with epoxy. A medium
cure epoxy resin system was used to allow
plenty of working time.

14
The front section was then completed
in the same way with the epoxy
coating taken just above the lower edge of
the masking tape.

7
To prevent the cut out piece of glass
cloth from slipping it was taped in
position.

15
A ‘wet on wet’ coating system was
used so when the first epoxy coat
was just getting tacky a second coat was
applied.

8
When the cloth was taped in position
the edges were marked for trimming


  • again allowing for about 50mm shrinkage
    when wetted out with epoxy.


FINAL WETTING OUT


BEGINNING THE LAY UP


WINTER PROJECT

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