TENBY PORT GUIDE
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knowledge of the harbour is second-to-
none, as his job is to keep vessels away
from the MOD shooting ranges nearby.
‘Pendine is the main range,’ he tells me.
‘It’s the busiest in the country, firing
Monday to Friday. There’s Manorbier,
too, which covers Linney Head to
Caldey Island.’
Firing practice
As we motor beyond the breakwater,
accompanied by Joseph’s colleague
Jack, I learn about the Banshees – the
unmanned drones that the soldiers use as
aerial targets. Before being deployed to
Afghanistan the drones have to be fired
once over the sea. Very rarely, one might
get hit, in which case Joseph would have
to recover it.
‘They try not to hit them, though,’ he
says. ‘They cost £80,000.’
LEFT The tide has
left these yachts in
Tenby harbour high
and dry for the day
BELOW St Catherine’s
island and the fort
that was used for
filming Sherlock
Alamy
On the chart there’s actually a very
narrow corridor of a quarter of an inch that
you need to stick to when all the ranges
are active. If vessels wander into the
range, it’s Joseph’s job to notify them.
‘If they’re sailing we’ll ask them to put
the engine on and change course. On
passage from Ilfracombe to Tenby, for
example, that can mean a diversion of up
to 10 miles.’
Presumably you’ve never shot anyone? I
ask. ‘No, not yet. That would be far too
much paperwork,’ he laughs.
We head out of the harbour, passing the
cardinal that now marks Woolhouse
Rocks. Behind us, the seaside terraces
retreat into a pastel blur, so that the only
prominent feature is the 153ft church
spire. It’s hard to imagine that behind the
Regency and Victorian houses that
sprouted with the 19th century tourism
boom is Tenby’s medieval alter-ego.
Tucked inside its 13th century walls is a
lively town, which may come as a surprise
for first-time visitors. That said, there is a
good chance that most visiting yachtsmen
are already familiar with Tenby, having
come from Swansea or Ilfracombe. There
are 12 yellow visitor buoys in the harbour.
However, in a southeasterly over 10 knots
it can be horrible, says Joseph. Best to be
in the harbour overnight, as it gets a bit
‘shuffly’ on a mooring.
Island life
We head west for a while, past thickly
wooded limestone cliffs. In the distance is
Caldey Island, which I remember visiting
as a child. I’m thrilled to learn that the
resident monks still make chocolate there.
‘There are boat trips out to Caldey every
day,’ says Joseph. ‘The village is really