BOAT DOCTOR///Q&A22 | BOATINGMAG.COM | JANUARY 2018///Q&ANAUTICAL
NO -NOPHOTOS: (FROM TOP) COURTESY OVERTON’S, KEVIN FALVEYQ:DRIP
NOT
Hello Boat Doctor. I
just purchased a Grady-
White and want to
add a VHF radio. I am
comfortable installing
the antenna bracket
onto the hardtop,
and I am comfortable
snaking the antenna
wire through the metal
tubing supporting
the top. But how do I
run the antenna wire
through the fi berglass
top without leaving a
hole that will drip and
look bad?
Artie Becker
Gainesville, FloridaA:
Hi Artie. There are a number of solutions to your
problem, all easy. The tried-and-true method is to
purchase what is called a mini clamshell vent. With this
stainless-steel fi tting, you drill the hole, run the antenna
cable, screw down the clamshell, then squirt caulk into the
vent and smooth it fl ush to prevent water intrusion. For
good measure, face this aft.
Alternatively, there are any number of wire and cable
“glands” and deck connectors sold at marine-supply stores.
Pick one and have at it.
Whichever solution you choose, be sure to leave enough
slack in the cable between the hole and the bracket to allow
the antenna to lie f lat as well as stand vertically.(continued from page 21)
Deviation affects the compass
by more or fewer degrees,
depending upon the boat’s
heading — and thus the angle
of pull of the object creating
the deviation. Your observa-
tion about disparate readings
occurring at different times
is most probably disparate
readings occurring at
different headings.
A hand-bearing compass
or a GPS can be used to create
what is known as a deviation
table. This is a table of offsets
that tells what heading to steer
in order to actually make a
certain magnetic course.MY HATCH
GENTLY WEEPS
Q: Dear Boat Doctor, plastic
hatch doors aboard my boat,
such as the door that conceals
the tackle trays and the ones
on the battery compart-
ments, have started to leak.Each door is made of a black
plastic, and after a heavy rain,
or following boisterous use
of the hose, I notice water in
the various compartments.
The boat is 10 years old. What
can I do to make the hatches
water tight again?
Philip Teitlebaum
New York City, New YorkA: Philip, your hatches were
likely never truly watertight,
but rather closed tight enough
and sealed tight enough to
keep out stray water. First,
check out the hardware. Are
the doors or any of the frames
warped or out of square? You
may be able to square-up a
buggered frame; a warped
door may need replacement.
See a glass shop or make your
own out of plexiglass. Use
clear plastic, and then paint
the backside of the finished
door black with acrylic paint.
It will look great.
Next, check out the hinges
and latches. If the hinges are
loose, tighten the fasteners.
You may need to use larger
screws or replace screws with
nuts and bolts. As for the
latches, if they are the type I
am envisioning, there should
be an L-shaped piece of metal
mounted to the doorstop
that the latch catches to close
the door. Such catches are
often mounted with a slotted
fastener hole so that you can
adjust the tightness of the
locking action and ensure the
door presses more securely
against the stops.
Finally, check for a gasket
of foam or rubber around the
inside perimeter of the door
or on the doorstop portion
of the frame. This may be
worn or missing and can be
replaced with self-adhesive
foam weather stripping from
a marine retailer.
Good luck!CELLPHONE KILLER
This helm-top stowage recess lacks drainage.
The evening dewfall resulted in enough pud-
dled water to kill a cellphone that might be
placed there. A heavier source of water, such as
rain or overspray from the hose, would cause the
water level to rise to the level of the electrical recepta-
cles, where it would hasten corrosion and possibly cause
a short circuit or even a fi re. Water is inevitable aboard
boats. When shopping for a boat, always look for places
that will hold water and be sure they can drain properly.
— Kevin Falvey