Motor Boat & Yachting — February 2018

(Greg DeLong) #1

Strait, is the old Moorish harbour at Tarifa and the welcoming
Barbate Marina, with its traditional Andalusian restaurants
and mouth-watering beaches. For a taste of North Africa in
comfortable surroundings, friendly Marina Smir is only 23
miles south of Europa Point. So, in any direction from Gibraltar
Bay you have options galore, and the British territory is barely
a three-hour fl ight from London.


GIBRALTAR’S MARINAS
QUEENSWAY QUAY
This 185-berth marina is in the heart of Gibraltar’s old naval
dockyard at Ragged Staff Wharf. Its elegant apartments refl ect
the colonial style of some of Gib’s traditional buildings, and the
place has a civilised atmosphere with links to the port’s colourful
history. The wild slopes of the Rock make
a grand backdrop to the scene. Queensway
can accommodate up to eight 30m and
two 40m boats. There is also a 75m berth,
depending on draught. The Waterfront
restaurant is opposite the marina offi ce,
and there are several other bistros and
bars along the quay.
Ragged Staff Wharf was built by the
British in 1736 for victualling naval ships.
It also became the traditional landing place
for newly arriving Governors of Gibraltar.
Indeed, the steps known as Governor’s
Landing are still part of the marina. Walking
into town, you pass through Ragged Staff
Gates to reach Main Street, which meanders
north through the old heart of Gibraltar.
Main Street is pedestrian only, with
fascinating side alleys to explore, and
there are all kinds of shops, boutiques, pubs
and cafés with an essentially English feel.


In Gib, you’ll fi nd Library Street, College Lane, Baker’s Passage and
Cathedral Square. The police station has a real blue lamp
and the post offi ce is an imposing building with a bright red pillar
box outside. But the town is also tinged with more exotic fl avours.
Many local shops are owned by Indian families, descendants
of enterprising traders who followed the British army to most
of its campaign outposts. The Gibraltarians themselves look
more Mediterranean than British, descended from a polyglot mix
of settlers – Moorish, Genoese, Portuguese, Spanish and Maltese.

MARINA BAY AND OCEAN VILLAGE
On the north-west side of Gibraltar between the town and the
airport runway, this pleasant modern marina area is backed
by the impressive chalk scars of the Rock. Marina Bay is the
older, northerly part of this complex, with cafés, restaurants
and apartments along Admiral’s Walk. Bianca’s restaurant and
Da Paolo next door are my favourites here. Close to the south,
Ocean Village is built around pier islands reached by pedestrian
boardwalks. The largest island has a glitzy cathedral and the
Sunborn fl oating hotel is moored on its north side, dominating
the waterfront like a cruise ship. Three 17-storey towers overlook
the scene, their blue-glass balconies looking slightly unreal.
Marina Bay and Ocean Village have 330 berths between
them, and Marina Bay can accommodate boats up to 100m.
The staff are always genial and help you quickly through
Gibraltar’s customs procedures. The berths are a short walk
from the north end of town and a splendid open piazza
known as Casemates Square inside the original garrison
walls. From here, you can join the north end of Main Street.
From Marina Bay, you can also walk across the runway and
frontier into La Línea, a rambling, low-key Spanish town which
has always had strong links with Gibraltar. Many Spanish workers
commute daily into Gib, mostly on foot or by bike. For boat owners,
La Línea’s important assets are its restaurants and tapas bars.

41

TRAVEL

Ocean Village Marina
is also home to the
Sunborn fl oating hotel

The famous
lighthouse at
Europa Point

Queensway Marina
in the heart of the
old naval dockyard
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