virtually no habitation, apart from the Caleta Hotel down near
the sea and a cluster of cottages and villas just to the north in
Catalan Bay. You pass the long, low beaches of La Línea and then
more rural country near the Alcaidesa golf resort. Just before
Sotogrande, you see the shallow mouth of the Rio Guadiaro.
SOTOGRANDE This soothing marina is only 18 miles from
Marina Bay – an easy hop for lunch. Sotogrande is one of the
quietest and most stylish developments along the Costa del
Sol, and behind the harbour, an extensive leafy estate shelters
substantial villas set back in their own grounds. The country
around the marina is low lying, so the place feels pleasantly
open and airy. The waterfront has shops, restaurants and
terrace cafés. While not the authentic face of Andalusia,
Sotogrande is worth visiting for its tranquil atmosphere.
PUERTO DE LA DUQUESA A few miles north of Sotogrande,
Duquesa Marina is also congenial, though more built up and
enclosed. The quayside cafés and restaurants are popular in
high season, when Duquesa has an almost clubbish atmosphere.
Kelly’s Bar is a companionable
meeting place and the business
for breakfast! Although very Italian
in this sunny corner of Spain,
Parapiro’s Ristorante is a great
place to eat, especially on the top
fl oor overlooking the harbour.
ESTEPONA The popular marina
and resort at Estepona has apartment
blocks and hotels sprawling behind
the port, but the atmosphere is
pleasant when you get in. There are
plenty of bars and tavernas, and the
quayside terraces are popular with
both locals and tourists, especially
for lunch after the Sunday market
that fi lls most of the harbour. But
for a genuine fl avour of Andalusia,
take a taxi or hire car inland to
Gaucín, an amazing whitewashed
mountain village with breathtaking
views down to Gibraltar and North
Africa. The narrow streets and tall houses spread picturesquely
over two hills above the Genal valley. The highlight here is lunch
on the panoramic balcony of Platero & Co.
ACROSS THE STRAIT
CEUTA Beckoning from across the Strait, the shadowy coast
of Morocco exerts a mysterious magnetism, although the most
popular port of call on the African shore is the Spanish enclave
of Ceuta, just 13 miles from Europa Point. Ceuta is a so-called
‘duty-free’ port, but I’d avoid all the grot shops and simply
enjoy the lively cosmopolitan town with its old colonial feel,
elegant avenues and well-kept gardens. The town and harbour
are overlooked and partly enclosed by the conical hump of Punta
Almina, and it’s worth walking up here for the striking views.
Ceuta Marina is right
at the back of the harbour
and has a welcoming
atmosphere, though it’s
often diffi cult to fi nd an
empty berth. The town has
a colourful food market,
reached through a tunnel
near the marina entrance.
Restaurante el Velero is a
super little place, tucked
behind Juan Carlos Park.
MARINA SMIR Not quite ten miles south of Punta Almina and
about 25 miles from Marina Bay, the Moroccan Marina Smir lies
opposite a distinctive conical-shaped hill known as Jbel Sim Sim.
Smir is a comfortable, well-appointed marina with full facilities,
including a travel lift. For a fi rst taste of Morocco, this is an ideal
port of call close to Gibraltar, but watch out for fi shing nets when
on passage between Punta Almina and Smir.
Smir is a port of entry for Morocco and the obliging marina staff
make light work of the customs formalities. There’s no real town
here, but you can take a taxi to the old town of Tétouan, 22km to
the south. This historic capital of the Rif mountain region lies in
a relatively cool valley, and its closely packed whitewashed buildings
give shade from the Moroccan sun. The old quarter is a seething
maze of alleyways and cobbled streets.43TRAVELCURRENTS IN
THE STRAIT
The Strait of Gibraltar
is a complex tidal
crossroads, where the
cyclical Atlantic tidal
wave meets the cul-de-
sac of the Mediterranean
and slides to a halt. Although the Strait itself has a surface
tidal cycle, east of Gib, tidal effects largely die out. Overlaid
on to the Strait tidal cycle is a more or less permanent
surface inflow from the Atlantic, caused by the high rate
of Mediterranean evaporation. This effect increases the net
rate of the east-going tidal set and slows down the west-going.
Useful surface-flow charts are given in The Straits Sailing
Handbook. Always remember, it’s the net effect of the
combined tidal stream and surface currents that are
important for planning a passage through the Strait.A cable car
whisks visitors
up the RockThe colourful
Sunday market
in Sotogrande